2 days Ago By Tomas Telegramma
Stakes were high at The Age Good Food Guide 2025 Awards on Monday night as some trailblazing restaurants were celebrated while others – including some of the city’s enduring favourites – took a tumble, losing their coveted chef hats. After going in the Guide unscored last year, amid a $3 million refurb , the sky-high Vue de Monde has rejoined the three-hat hall of fame, reclaiming its place on Melbourne’s dining leaderboard with food as good as ever, but an experience a little less buttoned-up. “Vue de Monde is absolutely back with a bang,” says Guide editor Ellen Fraser.
“This is high-calibre fine dining unlike anything else in the world – and it is astonishingly delicious. The floor team strikes that magic balance of fine-tuned and laid-back. And the refreshed room is even more worthy of the incredible outlook.
” The arc was similar for Torquay’s Samesyn , re-emerging from an overhaul with a thrilling zero-waste philosophy (and no bin!) that elevated it from one hat to two. On the flip side are several high-profile demotions. Rinaldo Di Stasio’s eponymous CBD restaurant Di Stasio Citta fell from two hats to one – as did Stephen Nairn’s Chapel Street bistro Omnia .
Sibling venue Yugen Dining lost its hat, as did Shannon Martinez’s mark-making vegan diner, following a recent transition to the more casual Smith & Daughters Social Club . Other losses included Bistro Gitan, Il Bacaro and Tonka. “The decision to remove a hat is never made lightly, particularly at such a tough time for restaurants,” says fellow Guide editor Emma Breheny.
“Some venues may still be ironing out the kinks after a major chef or concept change just prior to the Guide going to print,” says Fraser. “Some that scored highly on opening have fallen out of step with diners’ expectations today. Ultimately our responsibility is to the diner, and recommending venues beyond just the hottest new openings.
The experience and the price tag need to match up.” There’s been oscillation in the omakase landscape as well, where sophisticated Japanese set menus easily cost upwards of $200. Kew’s Sushi On and South Yarra’s Aoi Tsuki raised the (sushi) bar this year – both ascending from one hat to two – while Fitzroy newcomer Shusai Mijo , praised for its comparative value, debuted with a hat.
“Omakase dining is undoubtedly one of the biggest forces in Melbourne dining right now. More venues are bringing their own approach to the genre after the three-hatted Minamishima in Richmond set the standard nearly 10 years ago. If you love sushi, your time is now,” says Breheny.
City omakase restaurants did not fare so well, though, including the W Hotel’s dining centrepiece, Warabi , and The Chef’s Table at Kisume , which both dropped from two hats to one. It’s half of a one-two punch for Lucas Restaurants, with this year’s de-hatting of Grill Americano . But its 80 Collins flagship Society is flying high, with two hats once again.
Meanwhile, a raft of restaurants have been bestowed with a hat for the first time, including Dainty on Toorak , following the Sichuan stalwart’s significant renovation, Filipino firecracker Askal , Chinese institution Supreme J Kitchen and the plant-based Patsy’s . “What impresses us most is when a venue has a compelling singular vision and delivers on that,” says Fraser. “We’re excited to recognise places that are the best in their category or forging an entirely fresh path.
” Cause for celebration also extends to newly hatted neighbourhood wine-diners such as Bar Olo and Bar Bellamy in Carlton, and Bar Magnolia in Brunswick. There are neighbourhood losses, too, with hats gone from La Pinta in Reservoir and The Recreation in Fitzroy North. In the regions, single hats have been lost at Cape and Oakridge – but gained by Geelong’s Songbird , the reimagination of Igni; Albury’s fun-loving Norma; and Ballarat’s refined Babae .
“Dining outside the city continues to delight us, with more styles, price points and cuisines joining the big-ticket restaurants that are well known,” says Breheny. “It’s an exciting time to eat out in many different parts of Victoria.” The Age Good Food Guide 2025 , featuring more than 500 reviews, is on sale for $14.
95 from newsagents, supermarkets and at thestore.com.au .
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