5 hours Ago By Sangeeta Kocharekar
by Sangeeta Kocharekar URL Copied! Watermelon’s popping up on menus across Sydney, but not as you know it. Instead, it’s being served complemented with the likes of fermented tomato, pickled cucumber and tofu and soy milk emulsion. You can find creative watermelon dishes currently at Sydney restaurants Mejico , Kid Kyoto , Dear Sainte Eloise and Olympus .
Mejico’s head chef Leo Legname says he added a watermelon and cucumber salad to the summer menu as a palate cleanser to break up the richness of the proteins in the tacos. He says the fruit’s been on Mejico’s menu in some variation since it opened in 2013, with the restaurants’ chefs enjoying experimenting. var VMDAdsTheLatch = window.
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addHeaderBiddingSlot(slot_teads); }); “In the salad, the watermelon is compressed with agave and a little lime juice,” says Legname. “We also pickle the cucumber. The salad sits on a tahini sesame dressing, which is full of umami.
” The very best of The Latch delivered straight to your inbox. At Kid Kyoto, you’ll find a watermelon dish resembling sashimi. The watermelon is sous vide (vacuum-sealed and cooked in a temperature-controlled water bath) for 90 minutes before it’s sliced and served with tofu and soy milk emulsion, ginger shallot relish, water chestnut, glazed sunflower seeds and garlic chive oil.
Image: Kid Kyoto The restaurant’s head chef Sean Yoon says the result presents similarly to the much-loved Japanese seafood dish, but that’s entirely vegan. He adds the tofu and soy milk to add a creaminess that contrasts with the watermelon’s natural sweetness. “Ginger works well with melons and glazed sunflower seeds add a subtle sweet and sour element,” Yoon says.
“It’s always a fun game to watch people question, ‘Is this actually watermelon?’. Dear Sainte Eloise’s and Olympus’ watermelon dishes are similar — they’re a compressed watermelon slice, still with the rind, presented with a topping. At Olympus, the topping is ouzo and rose geranium, while Dear Sainte Eloise’s watermelon is paired with fermented tomato and chives.
Gabriel del Conti, head chef of the hospitality group behind DSE, Love Tilly, says compressing the watermelon concentrates the fruit’s natural sweetness and intensifies its flavour, making it taste richer without losing its signature crispness. “The tomato is chopped into a chunky puree and fermented for a few days, which deepens its natural umami and sweetness,” says del Conti. “This process brings out a savoury, almost earthy quality that contrasts beautifully with refreshing watermelon.
” Del Conti says the dish was the result of wanting to elevate simple, seasonal ingredients through new techniques. Watermelon is such a familiar fruit, but he wanted to transform it, so he experimented with compression to alter its texture, making it denser and more flavourful. After partnering the watermelon and tomato, he played with the final elements, landing on vinegar for acidity, fresh herbs for brightness and extra virgin olive oil for richness.
These last touches add complexity and acidity. So, why the influx of watermelon dishes? Well, watermelon’s grown here in Australia so it’s always affordable. Yoon says another reason is that diners are starting to see fruits as more than just a sweet snack.
He says it’s many Aussies’ favourite fruit and that’s also the case for chefs. Image: Dear Sainte Eloise, James Thompson “It’s amazing to see an ingredient we all know and love changed slightly to become a unique way to enjoy it,” says Yoon. “Not much has been done with watermelon in the past so there is some room for experimentation.
I’ve tried to make watermelon vinegar before. I’m excited to see how creative chefs can be with it.” Del Conti thinks watermelon’s appeal for chefs is that it’s such a delicate fruit and so, presents a fun challenge.
When you’re working with it more innovatively, like compression or fermentation, it requires precision. If you over-compress the watermelon, it can lose its structure and become too mushy. “Similarly, if you’re fermenting or pairing the watermelon with other strong flavours like tomato, you must be careful not to overwhelm its natural essence,” says Del Conti.
“Texture is key. Watermelon has a high water content so balancing that out with other elements on the plate is tricky. You also want it to be fresh and crisp without becoming too watery or soggy.
” Like Yoon, Del Conti predicts we’ll continue to see chefs exploring what they can do with watermelon. With its high water content, it’s great for dehydration techniques. He’s already seen chefs experiment with dried watermelon chips and using dried pieces as a garnish to add different textures to dishes.
“Fermenting watermelon will likely gain popularity, especially with the versatility of its tangy, umami-rich components,” says Del Conti. “Pickling could also be a natural next step. Watermelon’s sweetness can be an interesting counterpoint to pickling brines.
“I could also see more exploring watermelon in savoury applications — it’s a great vehicle for salty, spicy or herbal notes that play well with its subtle sweetness.” Related: Uncovering the Root of Ube’s Success in Australia Related: Why Are Sydney Restaurants Trying to Butter Us Up? Read more stories from The Latch and subscribe to our email newsletter . Tags: Food , Restaurants.
