Vogue’s best looks from the Dior haute couture spring/summer 2025 show

“The time has come for fashion to dream,” mused Maria Grazia Chiuri backstage at Dior’s Spring/Summer 2025 haute couture show . With a childlike sense of wonder, Chiuri transported her audience into a fantastical realm, melding memories, fairy tales, and a touch of punk rebellion. The collection unfolded as a narrative—a kaleidoscopic journey through time and imagination, where Victorian nostalgia met surrealist fantasy, all viewed through the whimsical lens of Alice in Wonderland .

Chiuri described her couture process as “a game,” evoking the innocence of childhood creativity. This playful spirit was woven throughout the collection, seen in crinolines, bloomers, and voluminous cage skirts that could have graced an otherworldly tea party. The surrealist influence of artists like Leonor Fini and Dorothea Tanning was evident in unexpected details—exaggerated proportions, abstract embroidery, and garments that seemed to defy logic.



Meanwhile, references to Dior’s iconic Trapèze line and Yves Saint Laurent’s A-line designs grounded the collection in the house’s storied heritage. Her deep reverence for the past seamlessly translated into a vision for the present. From delicate tulle and flimsy satin to structured jacquards, Chiuri’s fabric choices danced between fragility and strength.

Intricate textures mimicked childlike scribbles, with layers and embroidery that felt as though they had sprung straight from a dreamscape. One could almost imagine a young girl doodling her visions, unaware of the sophistication hidden within her innocent designs. Among the standout looks, Look 12 stole hearts with its rose-like puff of gray organza swirling atop a cage skirt—a child’s whimsical cumulus cloud come to life.

Equally enchanting was Look 19, a short dress of petal-like layers paired with lace-trimmed bloomers, evoking the image of Alice tumbling through a garden of oversized flowers. Look 25 offered a modern punk twist: a black lampshade dress glittering with jet beads, layered over sheer tulle bloomers. Meanwhile, Look 30 reimagined Victorian grandeur with a taffeta cape embroidered with botanical motifs inspired by Indian artist Rithika Merchant.

The pièce de résistance was Look 36, a nod to the past and future—a black mini-crinoline with ruffled shoulders, recalling Yves Saint Laurent’s scaled-up children’s designs for Dior. Chiuri’s collection was more than an ode to couture craftsmanship; it was a celebration of curiosity, imagination, and the enduring power of wonder. In a world often weighed down by realism, Chiuri reminded us of fashion’s innate ability to inspire and uplift.

After all, as she so poignantly reflected, “We’re all just passing through. Why not live in wonder?”.