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The debate over how the preference for fair skin impacts on those who are a darker shade was alive recently, after Kerala’s Chief Secretary Sarala Muraleedharan called out colour and gender bias . Across much of the world, and particularly in India, skin colour remains quietly powerful — shaping ideas of beauty, respectability, and even social mobility. In this environment, the desire for lighter skin has fuelled a booming market of creams and combinations, many of which are not only ineffective, but actively harmful.
But understanding this trend — and challenging it — requires more than dermatological guidance. It calls for an interdisciplinary approach, one that draws on anthropology to trace the cultural roots of colourism, and on dermatology to address its consequences. Between evolution and meaning Human skin colour is, in evolutionary terms, a remarkable adaptation.
Populations in equatorial zones developed more melanin to protect against ultraviolet radiation, while those further from the equator evolved lighter pigmentation to aid in vitamin D synthesis. Yet over time, skin tone came to signify more than just geography. As S.
Sumathi, Professor Emeritus of Anthropology at the University of Madras, explains, “The idea of colour has historically been linked to opposites — fair and dark, good and bad. These dualities became part of how communities organised themselves socially.” In the Indian context, she notes, these ideas were reinforced by colonial rule and social hierarchies.
Early British ethnographers classified populations based on skin tone and other features, embedding a value system that persists subtly to this day. “Fairness gradually came to be associated with refinement, aspiration, even moral character,” she says. “Unfortunately, those perceptions were absorbed across communities and continue to influence how we see ourselves and each other.
” The quiet cost of fairness While cultural beliefs sustain the demand for lighter skin, dermatologists are increasingly concerned with the health risks that follow. Ramesh Bhat, head of research at Father Muller Medical College and former International Director (2019–2024) of the International League of Dermatological Societies (ILDS), has been witnessing a steady rise in patients suffering from the misuse of topical corticosteroids — powerful prescription drugs intended for conditions like eczema or psoriasis. “These are Schedule H medications, meant to be used under medical supervision,” he explains.
“But they’re often sold over the counter or even used in salons, particularly for skin lightening.” The consequences can be serious. “Prolonged use leads to thinning of the skin, acne, infections, and uneven pigmentation — sometimes worsening the very issues people are trying to treat,” says Prof.
Bhat. Even more concerning is the growing trend of combination creams, which blend steroids with antifungals or bleaching agents. “These irrational mixes not only damage the skin but also promote resistance, especially to fungal treatments.
” Long-term misuse can also affect internal systems. “We’ve seen cases where extended use leads to elevated blood sugar, high blood pressure, and suppression of adrenal function,” he warns. “It’s a quiet but growing public health concern — rooted not just in access, but in aspiration.
” Global industry, a local psychology Across Asia, Africa, and Latin America, fairness continues to be marketed as desirable — often as a symbol of progress or modernity. In India, those messages are reinforced through advertising, films, and matrimonial listings. “Even today, fairness is casually equated with success and desirability,” says Prof.
Sumathi. “It’s internalised from a very young age, especially among girls. But increasingly, boys are not immune either.
” At the same time, skin tone plays a different role in how masculinity is constructed. “Dark skin is sometimes culturally coded as rugged, strong, or masculine — especially in film and popular culture,” she notes. “But that doesn’t offer immunity.
These stereotypes also box men into narrow roles and exclude those who don’t fit the mould.” While women are often pressured to lighten their skin to appear delicate or refined, men may feel compelled to embody a darker, hyper-masculine ideal — leaving little room for nuance, choice, or vulnerability. What makes this especially difficult to unlearn is that skin tone is not just cosmetic — it’s socially symbolic.
“It becomes a way to navigate society. Lighter skin is seen as an asset — in work, in relationships, in everyday interactions,” Prof. Sumathi explains.
“That’s why changing these attitudes isn’t just about products, but about perception.” Rethinking role of medicine and media As public concern around steroid misuse grows, the ILDS and national dermatology bodies have called for stronger regulation. But Prof.
Bhat believes a more holistic response is needed: “Yes, pharmacists must stop selling these drugs without prescriptions. But we also need public awareness campaigns that de-link fairness from beauty — and promote skin health over skin tone.” Education will play a key role.
“Schools and institutions must challenge long-standing stereotypes about skin colour,” says Prof. Sumathi. “If we wait until adulthood, these beliefs are already deeply embedded.
” Both experts stress that the media — from cinema to social platforms — has a critical role to play. “We need more realistic and diverse representation,” Prof. Sumathi adds.
“Advertising still centres around lighter-skinned models, even when the audience itself is far more diverse.” Beyond the Binary Anthropology also offers a way forward — by encouraging us to move beyond the simplistic binary of fair and dark. “Postmodern perspectives suggest that these categories aren’t fixed,” says Prof.
Sumathi. “There are nuances, overlaps — and a real need to stop seeing skin tone as a ladder of value.” Instead of treating fairness as the ideal, we can begin to ask different questions: What does it mean to care for our skin? How can we value health, heritage, and individual variation over inherited ideals? “We must dismantle the idea that beauty, competence, or virtue is tied to complexion,” she says.
“This takes time, but it begins with everyday language and representation.” Towards a different kind of fairness Skin, ultimately, is a story — one of ancestry, adaptation, and lived experience. In India, that story has been shaped by history, reinforced by commerce, and absorbed into daily life .
But as more voices — from dermatologists to anthropologists, patients to educators — come together, that narrative is beginning to shift. A new kind of “fairness” is emerging: one that prioritises equity over complexion, dignity over perception, and truth over tradition. This isn’t about criticising people for wanting to care for their appearance — that’s a natural instinct.
But it’s essential to ensure those choices aren’t shaped by unexamined ideals or unsafe products. True empowerment lies in informed decisions, where beauty isn’t dictated by fairness, and worth isn’t measured in skin tone. (Dr.
Monisha Madhumita is a consultant dermatologist at Saveetha Medical College, Chennai. She can be reached at mail.monisha.
[email protected] ) Published - April 10, 2025 05:21 pm IST Copy link Email Facebook Twitter Telegram LinkedIn WhatsApp Reddit health.
