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Even for the most conscious consumers, it can be a challenge to identify plastic in our everyday lives and that includes in our wardrobes. The environmental impact of fossil-fuel based fibers happens at every stage of their lifecycle. From greenhouse gas emissions at the production stage to the shedding of microplastics when we wear and launder plastic clothing to their lack of biodegradability at end of life.
It takes between 20 and 200 years for a piece of polyester clothing to break down, adding to waste pollution, and the true impacts of the pollution and waste caused by them are still unravelling. Recent research from Textiles Exchange shows that use of synthetic materials is on the rise in fashion . Polyester is the biggest culprit, accounting for 57% of all fiber production in 2023, but it’s not just polyester that’s part of fashion’s fossil fuel problem.
Tackling plastic waste in our clothes, shoes and accessories isn’t always easy, but as well as being the environmentally friendly choice, it also has benefits for wearers. Each material has its own unique properties but natural materials tend to be comfier and offer better thermoregulation. Here’s what to look out for.
How to identify synthetic fabrics It’s not always obvious from appearance, price or even the feel of a garment whether it contains plastic, so always check the clothing label or product details section when shopping, advises Roberta Lee, a fashion stylist who supports women in building a more sustainable wardrobe. “Start to understand a little bit more about what materials are more friendly to your skin and the planet, take a bit of time to understand what is a natural fabric, and know what to look for when you look at the labels,” says Lee. Beyond polyester, fabrics such as nylon, elastane, PVC, acrylic and fleece should also be on your radar as synthetic.
Some labels that might cause confusion are “vegan leather” or “faux fur”, which only assures it is not made from animal skin, but could be made from plastic instead, or “satin” which is a type of weave, not the name of the fiber, and is typically made from either silk or polyester. Lee adds that it’s important to look beyond generic sustainability claims or marketing tags such as “made with wool” to look at the fabric composition on the label as many fabrics are composed of multiple fibers. “A lot of people think that they're doing a good thing when they buy from a range that is touted as more sustainable, and then what they don't realize is actually the fabric composition is so low in what is considered sustainable,” she says.
Which Fashion Items Are Commonly Made From Plastic? Once you start to spot it, you’ll notice that plastic is everywhere in fashion, and it’s easier to avoid in some items than others. Lauren Bravo, author of How To Break Up With Fast Fashion, encourages shoppers to think about all components of an item as well. “A lot of linings are made from polyester, even if the outer layer is a natural material.
” Plastic hardware including buttons, zippers and sequins and patent leather, which is coated in plastic to give a high-shine effect, are also adding to the mounting plastic waste created by our shopping habits. Other signs to look out for include anything with a shiny appearance, whether metallic or glossy, or with highly saturated colours. This can feel overwhelming, but understanding why synthetics might be used can help to identify items which can more easily be sourced in natural fibers and where you might have to make compromises.
“Synthetics do have some redeeming qualities,” says Bravo. “They tend to be more durable and they’re particularly useful in technical clothing, such as activewear and swimwear, for being waterproof and stretchy, but we should only be using plastic when it’s really necessary. Buy those items secondhand if you can.
” Is recycled polyester environmentally friendly? Many brands are switching virgin polyester for recycled polyester or recycling plastic waste, such as bottles, into fashion items in the name of sustainability. However, Lee says that going for natural fibers, if you can, is still a better option: “Recycling material that already exists is better than it being created brand new, but we still have all of these microfibers being released when people are wearing and washing the garment. It's not an ideal fabric when it comes to looking at sustainability and pollution, and also health.
” Bravo agrees and particularly doesn’t recommend buying into fashion items made from recycled plastic bottles. “We’re not really dealing with the waste problem; we’re just removing it from one area and creating a waste problem in another.” Bio-based alternatives are coming to fashion While cotton, linen and wool are well established materials that we can look to use over synthetic fabrics, innovative new materials are coming to the market to simulate leather and fur without the use of animals or plastic.
Savian is an alternative to fur and shearling made from hemp, nettle and flax which is currently being used by luxury, creulty-free brand Stella McCartney and Danish fashion label Ganni. McCartney is also working with Mirum which claims to be the “world’s first plastic-free alternative to leather”, since many plant-based leathers still use plastic coatings for durability. Roni Gamzon, cofounder of BioFluff, which created Savian, says that consumer awareness of a need for alternatives is vital to her work.
“The products are not yet widely available in market, and it takes time. We started two and a half years ago and we’re working with these major brands that are trying to commercialize it, but it just takes time. What I would say to consumers to support us is to keep putting pressure on brands to ditch animals and plastic and look for alternatives.
” What should you do with existing plastic clothing? Innovation is also coming in the form of washing machines filters which can tackle microplastic pollution, though again, rolling this out could take some time. However, Lee recommends some more accessible options in the meantime. “Things like using microfiber catching bags, like the Guppy Friend or the Cora Ball,” she says.
It can be tempting to throw away synthetic clothing once you’re aware of the issue, but this will only add to the waste problem, says Bravo, and that the best solution is to utilise what we already own: “The most important thing we can do is commit to our clothes. It’s the best thing we can do for the environment.”.
