2 weeks Ago By Amanda Keenan
They say you should think twice before visiting Broome during wet season. But try telling that to the scores of white-haired, white-shoed tourists on shore leave from the cruise ship Westerdam. It’s 35C in the shade, with a humidity level that makes hair and clothing feel wholly unnecessary, and there is certainly no rain.
The oldies in their maritime stripes are yukking it up in the sports bar at the Roey, enjoying the attention of the “infamous Roey Sports Girls”, who are wearing knickers and singlets and have $50 notes tucked into their bras. It’s a hell of a scene and, strangely, not the least bit uncomfortable or weird. There are all kinds of characters — some bemused by the influx of elderly visitors.
As my local companion says: this is Broome. But as already noted: they say you should think twice before visiting Broome in wet season. Unfortunately I thought only once, and that thought did not include the memory of a previous visit when I was monstered by midges.
Needless to say, the industrial strength repellent offered free in the Mangrove Hotel’s outdoor areas was not applied early enough. What had been intended as a cooling dip in the hotel pool was merely an opportunity for insects to feast on my ears and neck while my body poached in the uncomfortably hot water. The Bay Club is an undeniably stunning place to sit when one is appropriately repellent to insects.
At particular times of day, the turquoise water of Roebuck Bay glistens like an opal. A local tells me Broome seems to attract different nationalities in singular droves. At the moment, there seem to be plenty of Italians enjoying a steamy summer in the pearling town.
It’s no more apparent than at the Prendiville-owned Mangrove, where you’ll find Italians working and also enjoying the hospitality of their compatriots. There is an Italian restaurant and deli; the former is called Johnny Sausages and like a lot of places, it’s closed for the wet season. So guests wanting dinner are limited to The Bay Club menu, which skews Asian but also includes pizza and pub classics.
Despite the prevalence of people who know good pizza the Diavola, $28, is set on a dense dough that is not entirely traditional and which is then left soggy in the centre by the (admittedly) excellent topping of sparse sopressa, cherry tomatoes, a rich sugo and plenty of chilli. I mocked myself as I ate it with a knife and fork. It feels too hot to order a lamb rendang or a steak but a bowl of wok-fried greens, $23, is terrific — fresh, sweet and spicy and bursting with a luxe addition of baby king oyster and enoki mushrooms — and feels a bit more seasonally appropriate.
There’s a variation with Hokkien noodles and impressively tender chicken breast, $35, that semi-satisfied the part of me hankering for the (tragically) closed Aarli Bar. If you’re not ensconced in a fancy resort out of town, the Mangrove is the place to stay for a full Broome experience — good food, cold drinks and midges included. Pack your DEET, kids.
Alternatively, the locals rave about The Locals DEET-free Sandfly and Mozzie Spray. A spot to immerse yourself in the Broome experience. 47 Carnarvon Street, Broome Open Lunch midday-2.
30pm, dinner 4.30pm-8pm, daily Contact mangrovehotel.com.
au Bookings Yes.
