State by Plate: Caldillo duranguense

During the leadup to the 1968 Summer Olympics held in Mexico City, states were asked to prepare tourist profiles that might be useful to the many visitors expected. One of the questions asked was: What is your state’s signature dish? Durango chose caldillo duranguense as its emblematic entry. Although not a unanimous decision, it has proven a wise choice, as the hearty stew has stood the test of time.

Over half a century later, caldillo duranguense remains Durango’s most representative culinary expression. Caldillo duranguense was born, or at least began evolving into its current form, when the railroad came to Durango during the late 19th century . The dish is linked historically to the laborers who laid down the tracks that connected the Antigua Estación del Ferrocarril in Durango city, the state capital, with the rest of the country, beginning with the first train from Torreón, Coahuila in 1892.



Originally a simple potato soup, the physical demands of the work dictated the evolution of a more nourishing stew. Naturally, meat was added — originally venison, game meat beloved in Durango, but later easier-to-find beef — turning the erstwhile potato soup into a beefy stew. The tomato was another addition, giving more body to the broth.

Seasonings also intensified. As aficionados of Mexican food know, chilis can be fresh or dried. However, there’s another form native to Durango and Chihuahua known as chile pasado .

For this delicacy, the chiles are roasted and sun-dried for preservative purposes but can be rehydrated before cooking. Chilaca and mirasol are the most common fresh chilis to use for this method and the resulting chile pasado is an essential ingredient to achieving the true flavor of traditional caldillo duranguense, or as it is sometimes called regionally, caldillo durangueño. Potatoes, the one-time raison d’etre of the soup, gradually became optional, but garlic and onion, blended with beef broth and chilis, have remained mandatory.

Despite protestations that scorpion tacos are not part of regional gastronomy , in a historical sense, scorpion tacos seem well on the way to acquiring that status— at least for tourists. Certainly, there is no shortage of scorpions in Durango, nor is there any shortage of visitors courageous enough to crunch their way through them, with Mercado Gómez Palacio in Durango city being one of the preferred spots to try the exotic specialty item. As one might expect, the stinger is removed before the scorpion is marinated in mezcal or otherwise seasoned.

The rest of the arachnid is then served on a corn tortilla with toppings like cheese, lettuce, onion, tomato, salsa and a squeeze of lime. Mezcal bottles with a scorpion inside are another curiosity associated with Durango, although this is not exclusive to the state. Durango ranked third in mezcal production in Mexico in 2023, albeit far behind Oaxaca, which produces over 90% of the national total and is the most notable source of the nation’s iconic spirit.

Still, Durango is one of only nine states legally allowed to make mezcal under the denominación de origen regulations and regional versions are worth trying since they’re traditionally made not with espadin — the agave species used for over 80% of all mezcals — but with maguey cenizo, a.k.a.

Agave durangensis. Cenizo thrives at high altitudes, found in abundance in Durango thanks to the mountain that make up nearly two thirds of the state. The state is also noted for its mineral-rich soils and natural springs, which along with cenizo’s lengthy maturation time — between 15 and 18 years — gives Durango mezcals a well-deserved reputation for quality.

Local specialists include Bosscal, Lágrimas de Dolores and Sacro Imperio. Noted tequila maker Clase Azul also makes mezcal, including Mezcal Durango from cenizo, joining Mezcales de Leyenda and Derrumbes among the national brands crafting regional expressions from Durango. Durango is dairy-rich, producing about 11% of Mexico’s milk .

As one might expect given this statistic, the state also specializes in cheese production, including some excellent regional specialties. For obvious reasons, queso Chihuahua is known simply as queso menonita in Durango. Like Chihuahua, Durango has Mennonite communities, too, notably in the municipalities of Nuevo Ideal and Santiago Papasquiaro.

Where Durango distinguishes itself, however, is with aged cheeses. Like maguey cenizo, the state’s queso añejo gets much of its flavor complexity from its unique maturation process. Made with goat milk, or more commonly with cow’s milk, these regional cheeses often need not months but years to reach maturity with the extra time in a controlled environment translating to a firmer, drier texture and enhanced flavors and aromas.

Potrero de Cháidez, a small rural community in the municipality of Tepehuanes , is the most famous source of Durango’s quesos añejos, with families passing down their time-honored methods from generation to generation. These cheeses are exclusively derived from cow’s milk — “leche bronca” in local parlance — and curdled via a rennet process known as “cuajo de cuerito.” A red chili paste applied to the rind following the initial aging process is another artisanal touch that works as a preservative and a unique flavor element.

The finished cheese is delicious as a standalone and is a perfect addition to any meal. Mostachón merits attention as one of Durango’s signature sweets , although it bears noting that this originally Spanish treat means different things depending upon the locale. In its native Spain, for example, a mostachón can be either a pastry or a spongy cake.

However, during the 19th century in Mexico, it emerged in yet another form: as a marzipan-style confection made with almonds. In Durango, though, it is typically made as a baked meringue, which is to say a light and airy sweet whipped from egg whites and sugar..

. with a pecan or top, not an almond. Among its many charms, Durango is also one of Mexico’s premier pecan-growing states.

Chris Sands is the Cabo San Lucas local expert for the USA Today travel website 10 Best, writer of Fodor’s Los Cabos travel guidebook and a contributor to numerous websites and publications, including Tasting Table, Marriott Bonvoy Traveler, Forbes Travel Guide, Porthole Cruise, Cabo Living and Mexico News Daily. His specialty is travel-related content and lifestyle features focused on food, wine and golf. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment.

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