1 week Ago By [email protected] (Chris Britcher)
Several years ago - we’re talking the pre-Covid era - I visited one of the county’s most picturesque restaurants and found it sorely lacking. The Minnis Bay Bar and Brasserie is perched at the end of the ever-popular coast road overlooking the sandy beach, from which it takes its name, in Birchington . By virtue of its privileged position, it ought to trade on more than a pleasant view.
After a £1m overhaul by then-new owners Shepherd Neame in 2017, it had looks to die for - a large terraced outdoor area, magnificent coastal views, and a large, enhanced restaurant area drenched in natural light, but cosy in the evenings. The only problem? On those previous outings, the food was mediocre and poor value. By the time that was compounded with service which bordered on being excruciatingly slow at times, it’s fair to say it failed to impress.
I tried it once, I tried it twice and, having failed on its second chance - for the same faults on both occasions - I decided to turn my back on it. Until, that is, last week. It was time, I felt, to give it another go.
Plus, with my Eat My Words hat perched on my head at a jaunty angle, thoughts of highlighting its shortcomings would make for an interesting review. But, as with all the best-laid plans of mice, men and KentOnline food reviewers, things didn’t go as expected. Because this place has changed.
Dramatically. Visiting on a Friday lunchtime, with the sun shining, the place was ticking over nicely. Upon entering, there’s a small bar area to the left and the expansive dining area to the right.
This is, clearly, a place which expects to make its margins on the grub. Shown to a table by the window, we got the full sea view experience and could gauge the outside temperature by the sight of the handful of brave souls sipping a pint on the outside terracing, wrapped up against the North Sea chill in hefty overcoats. Sat smugly inside, my expectations of what was to come were set to low.
But here was surprise number one - the menu was varied and imaginative. Gone were the lifeless standard pub-fayre dishes of yesteryear, replaced with some genuinely intriguing options. King prawn and razor clam bouillabaisse, prawn, chorizo and crab linguine and grilled swordfish fillet now catch the eye and whet the appetite.
A separate sheet even showcased its ‘Mussels Bar’ offering - where you could have the molluscs in a whole variety of exotic options. Bombay-curried, Spanish-style, Greek-style, or cooked with Roquefort and bacon..
. I’d never seen such variety. But it’s all very well sounding good.
The question is, what does it actually taste like? I opt for the intriguing-sounding goat’s cheese burger - which makes a pleasant change from the various other veggie burger options out there, so often bolted on just as a nod towards the non-carnivore diner. (Although I’m immediately then asked if I’d like bacon with it - which, in terms of an up-sell, is a bizarre choice to push). It comes with onion chutney, roasted red pepper, Kentish (no less) tomato chutney and ‘skin on house chips’.
It’s £14.50. My dining partners opt for the mussels with Orchard View cider, leek and shallot cream, plus sourdough bread and skin-on fries, for £15.
95 and a Caesar salad with hot smoked salmon for £18. Surprise number two, the food arrives without me having to call over a member of staff to enquire as to its whereabouts and whether they’re having to grow the potatoes. This, my friends, is pleasing progress.
In fact, service is good throughout. Now, I’ve tasted plenty of vegetarian and vegan-friendly burgers over recent years, but this goat’s cheese one really is rather special. For starters, it’s different.
Then there’s that distinctive tang of the cheese offset by the sweetness of the pepper and kick of the chutney. It is all very pleasing. The chips step up to the plate too, so to speak - crispy on the outside, fluffy on the inner, they set the whole thing off perfectly.
Surprise number three, and I’m forced to slam my preconceptions into the bin. The mussels, I’m informed (by one who considers it something of his specialist subject) are flavoursome but a little small. Well, you can’t have everything and size, I constantly remind myself, isn’t everything.
The Caesar’s salad is extremely generous and the add-on salmon plentiful. It’s a rare salad which will leave you full but this may be it. Another thumbs up.
As we sit there, the conversation, inevitably, ends up being how much improved this place is and how its menu cries out for another visit to explore a little further. It is living proof of the old conundrum; you can lose a reputation in a heartbeat, but it can take years to recover it. But recover it, I can confirm, it has.
The competition for coastal venues with a gastropub offering is fierce (just the previous day I lunched at a rammed Zetland Arms in Deal - another Sheps pub - where the fish and chips were heavenly) and the Minnis Bay, I’m delighted to say, is now back up there as a contender. For three of us, to eat and drink, the bill came to less that £58. Which, I’m going to say, was great value for money - albeit one where the only booze consumed was half a pint of Spitfire.
Well done, the Minnis, all is forgiven. Out of five: Food: Great choice and all three dishes ordered went down very well and were generous portion sizes **** Drink: This is a Shepherd Neame pub so you can guess the range of in-house beers (for around £5-6 a pint) available (although a pint of non-Sheps Birra Moretti for £6.90 seemed a little steep).
Decent-looking wine list too *** Decor: When this place unveiled its new look, it ticked all the modern boxes without serving up the food to match its surroundings. Now it does, which only enhances the interior ***** Staff: Friendly and efficient - although the bacon on a veggie burger option offered was baffling and they do suffer from that thing of every staff member passing asking if you’re enjoying the meal (three times is, I’d say, is two too many). *** Price: A beautiful location, good quality food, an intriguing and broad menu and well-designed eating space.
All for less than £60 for three of us - a bargain. *****.
