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With its shimmering turquoise waters, lush green forests and endless white sand beaches, you’d be forgiven for thinking that the Andaman Islands were further away from the mainland than they really are — indeed, many of the fellow travellers we encountered during our recent visit said they’d erroneously believed that they’d need a passport to get there! And, if the islands needed any endorsement for how exotic and enigmatic they seem, this would possibly be the best one. Crystal clear waters? Check. Underdeveloped, untamed vibe? Check.
Sunsets that are (officially) ranked as among the most beautiful in the world? Check. As cliched as it may seem, these islands do have something to offer every travellers eager to step off the beaten trail. If you’re hankering for a holiday that’s devoid of typical tourist traps, make sure to earmark this guide when planning your next getaway.
En route to paradiseMangrove trees on the coast of Neil Island. REPRESENTATION PIC/ISTOCKThe most important part of planning your holiday is to start early. Yes, although the Lakshadweep Islands have been making the rounds on social media, the Andaman Islands are still popular as a honeymoon destination for newlyweds.
Not surprisingly, flight tickets during the peak season (late November through mid-December) can be extortionate if you delay booking them in time. Major carriers including Indigo and Air India offer direct flights to Port Blair, the administrative hub in South Andaman, which serves as the gateway to the other smaller islands. Non-Indian travellers will need to register at the airport upon arrival; a simple but mandatory process.
A dive site off Havelock IslandAlso, budget consciously for every auto rickshaw or cab ride you will take once there — with tourism being the major revenue source for locals, the fares are on the higher side. Much like other beach towns, you will be well-served to rent your own two-wheeler to get around: rates begin at R300 a day. If you, like us, are environmentally conscious, you could rent a bicycle with some effort for Rs 200 a day.
However, do note that these rentals are infrequent to come across. To get around the archipelago, you will need to reserve a seat on a ferry. Private operators offer competitively priced alternatives to the government-run service, and a much smoother passage.
To avoid last-minute hassles, reserve your seat online.Nature’s bountySand bubbler crabs at Radhanagar beachOnce you’ve gotten all the pre-planning out of the way, it’s time to kick back and soak in the wonders of this tropical gem. We couldn’t help but note the strong nationalistic sentiment across Port Blair; a visit to the Cellular Jail helped us understand why.
The jail grounds are a sobering reminder of the islands’ history, which comes to life with the sound and light show that’s organised every evening. From here, you could take a 10-minute boat ride to Ross Island, which was the bastion of the British before the Japanese occupation of the islands.Nature buffs will appreciate the limestone caves at Barantang Island, a further two hours away from the city centre.
But, for us, our great island escape truly began when we reached Havelock Island (formally known as Swaraj Dweep), which is the most popular and touristy (relatively speaking) site in the area. The island enjoys the reputation of being home to some of the best dive and snorkelling sites in South Asia, is fringed by ancient Mahua trees and can be as bougie or basic as your sensibilities desire.Gypsy Divers Dive ResortFrom the much-acclaimed Barefoot and Taj properties, to smaller but sensibly outfitted resorts, the alternatives are aplenty.
Shack-like beach villa properties are especially popular but can vary vastly in terms of the levels of hygiene and amenities, so take time to read enough reviews online before making your decision.Taking the plungeThe sheer number of dive operators make it difficult to not be tempted to at least try scuba diving (or snorkelling, depending on your swimming abilities) at least once. Let us warn you, however, the sheer beauty of the vibrant coral reefs, the crystal clear waters and the abundance of fauna will have you hooked.
Many of the dive operators are willing to accommodate non-swimmers, although it is recommended you book your dive with a PADI or SSI-certified centre to ensure that all the safety protocol is being followed and the equipment is up to date. Don’t forget to pack reef-safe sunscreen only, to avoid endangering the delicate underwater life. More seasoned divers typically head onwards to Neil Island (Shaheed Dweep), which is home to the rare dugong or sea cow.
Sunset at the Radhanagar beachNeil Island is much more laidback than Havelock Island, which can be a pro or a con, depending on what you want from your holiday. If you’re not one for underwater adventures, there’s still plenty to do at the surface, a popular choice being kayaking in the mangroves. Choose a sunset trip to witness the majestic mangroves and listen to the locals passionately advocate about their importance, recalling the role they played in protecting the island during the 2004 tsunami.
Or, choose a sunrise trip at 4 am to witness the bioluminescent plankton twinkling like so many fallen stars. Eat, drink and go slowUnlike Goa, the Andaman Islands are not known for their nightlife scene. This is the type of holiday you take when you want to be in bed at a respectable hour and rise with the sun at 5 am.
Foodies will appreciate the plethora of well-priced seafood that almost every joint offers. But unless you’re up for a slower-paced way of life that involves practically living on the beach from dawn to dusk, these islands may strike you as a bit dull. Medical supplies are easily available and the larger islands have supermarkets that offer all the basics — however, since all supplies travel from the mainland, there are days when stocks run out and you have no recourse but to wait.
Before you go>> Book your ferry trip and accommodation online for the best prices>> Pack reef-safe sunscreen>> Research certified dive centres so you don’t feel overwhelmed once you’re get there>> Carry seasickness medication if you don’t have your sea legs yet>> Curate your itinerary — each island has its own highlights and some may be better suited to you than othersOur top picks>> Diving: Gypsy Divers Havelock for well-priced and professional lessons>> Food: Full Moon Café, for clean, café-style eats and Something Different for a lively ambience and cocktails in Havelock Island>> Ferry: Nautika operates the best-maintained vessels and the smoothest service>> Beaches: Radhanagar Beach for sunsets, Elephant Beach for sunrises and Kala Pathar Beach for lounging.
