People Are Steaming Their Hair — But Why? And Does It Work?

You probably don’t look in the mirror and think, I’d really love to open up the cuticle layers of my hair follicles right now. But honey, maybe you should. If winter has taken a toll on your locks, leaving you with dry, brittle hair, then opening up the strands with moist heat might allow them to absorb more moisture, leaving you with shinier, easier-to-style hair.

A popular method to add this deep moisture is through “hair steaming,” a salon procedure that’s making its way into many at-home beauty routines. “Steaming creates a humid environment that hydrates dry hair and enhances elasticity, reducing brittleness and promoting overall health,” said stylist Kim Kimble . “It can be a great addition to a hair care routine, when done in moderation and tailored to the individual’s hair type and needs.



” Celebs are hopping on the hair steaming bandwagon too, and actor Tracee Ellis Ross just came out with an at-home steamer from her Pattern brand. Promising “the ultimate hydration treatment” (and costing a hefty $169), it offers an at-home spa-day experience that claims to add volume, stretch strands and detangle curls. Hair steaming is quickly becoming an in-demand “upsell” salon service, along with deep conditioning, scalp treatments and volumizing.

We talked to hairstylists about the growing popularity of a treatment that’s making big promises about improving your hair. Steaming works best on low-porosity hair Hair steaming can have the biggest positive effect on hair that’s low-porosity. People of all races and ethnic groups can have this type of hair, but it’s especially common with Black hair.

Because the cuticles are very close together in low-porosity hair, products like conditioners or hair masks are often unable to penetrate very deeply into the follicles. You know you have low-porosity hair if water beads on the hair’s surface instead of sinking in, or if it takes a long time for your hair to get wet or to air-dry. Here’s a quick test: Shampoo and dry your hair, then pull out one strand and drop it into a glass of water.

Watch the strand to see where it floats. If the hair floats to the top for a while before sinking toward the bottom of the glass, it probably has low porosity. Hair that floats to the middle indicates medium porosity, while hair that sinks to the bottom of the glass right away is the most porous.

How will your hair look after steaming? Hair steaming is often used on Black, natural hair, helping to define curls and make styling easier. “Higher textures will benefit more from a steam treatment,” said stylist Erin Caltabiano . But others can see a positive difference, too: “Those dealing with dandruff or buildup may also benefit, since steam improves circulation and softens debris,” Kimble said.

Many stylists are embracing steaming techniques, but they know that the process works better on some heads than others. “It’s an excellent practice for moisturizing and hydrating hair, and particularly beneficial for individuals with dry hair or those with curly to coily hair, since those hair types tend to be drier,” said Stanley Nolan , an Ogle School cosmetologist and beauty education specialist. How hair steaming works If you’re getting a hair steaming treatment, your stylist starts by washing your hair with a clarifying shampoo to remove product buildup.

They, they add a deep conditioning treatment or hair mask. You’re placed under a hair steamer, which releases moist heat for anywhere from five minutes to an hour, depending on specific treatment goals and the condition of your hair. The steam will be warm, but not super-hot, according to Caltabiano.

“Water starts to steam at about 100 degrees Fahrenheit. Blow dryers are usually about 175 to 200 degrees and thermal tools are 300 to 450 degrees.” After you’re properly steamed, your stylist will return to rinse and style hair as normal.

You’ll need to do follow-up maintenance, too, said Nolan. “To maintain optimal results, it’s recommended to follow up at home or at the salon with a twice-monthly deep conditioning regimen.” Are there people who shouldn’t try steaming? As popular as this treatment is, it’s not right for everyone.

“People with very fine, thin or oily hair may not be the best candidates, since the excess moisture can weigh that hair down and make it appear greasy,” Kimble said. Other health conditions may require caution. “If you have ongoing hair or scalp conditions, you may not be ideal candidates for this,” Nolan said.

“Hair steaming could potentially trigger or worsen a condition. Also, pregnant people should also consult their physician before trying a steam service, as a precaution.” How long results last (and what you’ll pay to get them) “The longevity of results depends on the current condition of your hair,” Nolan said.

“For extremely damaged hair, the effects may last only a few days, but someone with healthy hair could experience benefits for up to two weeks.” So what is this going to set you back? “Hair steaming is often categorized as an ‘add-on’ service, with prices typically ranging from $50 to $350, depending on the salon, its services and location,” Kimble said. “I charge $75 for a steam treatment with a deep conditioner,” Caltabiano said.

“If it’s an add-on to a service, it’s usually included or costs $40.” A hack to try steaming at home If you don’t want to request the service in a salon or buy pricey at-home equipment, you can still give your hair a taste of the opened-up steaming life. All you’ll need is two shower caps and a face cloth.

Apply conditioner to your hair, then put on the first shower cap. Wet a face cloth, microwave it on high for two minutes, and put it on top of the shower cap. Then place the second cap on top of the face cloth.

Let it sit on your head for half an hour ― then rinse your hair with cold water, style as usual, and say hello to a new look of softer, more manageable hair. Related..

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