Paula McIntyre cooks with both fresh and tinned fish for two flavourful dishes

​ Hake with leeks, peas, dulse pickled shallots and cider veloute Despite the fact we live on an island, sourcing fresh fish is an elusive sport. Often referred to as the “Irish paradox”, where we’re surrounded by seas full of fish but there’s a reticence to eating it. One of the problems is that people think of fish as a smelly food that has a tendency to stink out your house.

The fact is that fish only has an aroma when it’s nearly or past its best. Walk into a restaurant and there’s a pungent fishy whiff? Turn round and walk right out again..