Paula McIntyre adds some vibrant, tasty interest to November meals

Smoked mackerel kedgeree When the weather turns chilly, we tend towards the beige in our food — bubbling, cheesy concoctions, hotpots topped with golden potatoes and creamy soups. What I really think we need is bright, vibrant food that tastes as good as it looks. Kedgeree ticks a lot of boxes for me — it’s a one pot dish with spice, fish, and the icing on the cake — soft boiled eggs.

It’s believed to have been devised in the 19th century by Scottish army regiments who’d been based in India and hankered for the tastes they enjoyed while stationed there. The rice is cooked with spices and aromatic vegetables, then finished with haddock..