3 weeks Ago
A secret password. A hidden door. The flavors of the Bayou.
From the moment I heard about a new restaurant in Concord serving Cajun and Creole dishes, and modeled after a speakeasy from the Prohibition era, I couldn’t wait to visit. We did so on a recent Friday night with dear friends. A daytime reconnaissance mission found only what appeared to be a closed barbershop in a brick building near Concord’s Eagle Square.
But at night, the front door is propped open, a blackboard revealing the establishment’s true name: N’Awlins Grille. Inside a cozy parlor, a mysterious black rotary phone sits on a small shelf beneath a gilded mirror. We lingered for a few minutes, admiring the decor.
Then the phone rang. And because I had done some scouting, I answered the phone with the secret phrase: “Who dat?” A hidden door swung open to reveal a striking interior with brick walls, strings of white lights and strands of Spanish moss hanging from the rafters, and the ghostly images of jazz greats Satchmo and Lady Ella smiling from the walls. The cool vibe instantly transports you to a time when people dressed for dinner, and sipped elegant cocktails at classy bars where strangers became friends.
The magical atmosphere and attentive staff at N’Awlins Grille elevate the place from what could have felt like kitsch to something special indeed. The friendly hostess, dressed in full flapper splendor, offered us our choice of a booth or high top in the front room, or a table in the back room where a jazz guitarist was setting up to play. We chose the booth, and were soon welcomed by Chris, a knowledgable and congenial bartender who crafts creative cocktails from a well-curated list, and will even fashion a mocktail to your taste.
The Carnivore, our designated driver, asked for something with pineapple and coconut and was rewarded with a berry-filled concoction ($8). Dear Friend 1 was very pleased with the Buffalo Trace bourbon that Chris recommended, a generous pour at $15, rating it “a smooth whiskey with a touch of sweetness that hints of caramel.” I chose one of the drink specials, a yummy ginger-pear margarita ($11).
Dear Friend 2 spotted the Pimm’s Cup ($12), triggering fond memories of that libation, and she was happy with her choice. For an appetizer, we skipped over the Gator Bites ($30) and Crawfish Boil ($16), opting instead for the Hush Puppies ($11), five deep-fried cornmeal rounds served with a tasty Cajun aioli. Crisp on the outside, moist inside, they vanished in a flash.
“I could eat 30 of those,” DF1 declared. The menu at N’Awlins Grille is decidedly Cajun/Creole, so be prepared for some heat — although they do list a Yankee Burger as a concession to the timid of tastebud. The restaurant offers diners a choice of full- or half-portions of four of its entrees, a welcome option I wish more restaurants would feature.
For a pescatarian with celiac, the menu is pretty limited, but the others were happy to order a variety of dishes to share, starting with the Taste of N’Awlins ($20), featuring moderate portions of red beans and rice, shrimp and grits, and jambalaya. I had set my sights on the grits as a safe gluten-free choice, so I ordered a half-portion ($15) for myself. The grilled shrimp were great, but the grits, while delightfully creamy, could have used a bit more flavor, whether a pinch of salt or perhaps extra cheese on the side.
We also ordered the Blackened Trout entree ($22), a pan-seared filet that was cooked to perfection, the fish flaky and sweet. It was served with white rice and crisp snap peas. DF2 decided the jamabalaya was too spicy for her taste, but her husband loved this rich, meaty dish so we ordered another half-portion ($12).
The Carnivore thought the spicy and savory red beans and rice was the best dish of all. Vegetarians, be aware: The dish is prepared with Andouille sausage and served with a piece of fried chicken, a tasty morsel the others managed to divide into three pieces. There was no debate over dessert: We ordered the beignets ($7), three good-sized pastries that were deep-fried, adorned with powdered sugar and served hot.
“Divine,” murmured DF2 with a happy smile. Like “perfectly executed fried dough.” “About as good as it gets,” agreed the Carnivore.
N’Awlins Grille offers live music most nights, and we were lucky to have chosen an evening when guitarist Gary Smith was playing, his repertoire an accomplished mix of standards and surprising modern tunes (was that Radiohead’s “Creep” we detected?). Bartender Chris told us that the owner of N’Awlins Grille, who previously had a restaurant by that name in Manchester, also operates speakeasy-themed spots in Claremont, Keene and Nashua, disguised, respectively, as a hardware store, shoe store and library. Road trip, anyone? As we strolled into the night, we couldn’t stop smiling.
It had been a memorable, even magical, evening. We can’t wait to go back. Laissez les bons temps roulez! N’Awlins Grille 90 Low Avenue, Concord; 603-856-7071.
Cuisine: Cajun & Creole dishes, creative cocktails, great speakeasy atmosphere. Hours: Tuesday-Thursday, 5 to 10 p.m.
; Friday, 5 to 11 p.m.; Saturday, 5 p.
m. to midnight. Closed Sunday and Monday.
Prices: Appetizers: $11-$30; salad, sandwiches and burgers, $13-$19; entrees, $12-24; desserts, $7. {related_content_uuid}f3e630bc-efd0-434e-9b51-98df6a358f38{/related_content_uuid} Scores for N’Awlins Grille Atmosphere: 20/20 Menu: 17/20 Food: 17/20 Service: 19/20 Value: 18/20 Total: 91/100 {related_content_uuid}a31392fd-6095-4193-b026-fab5f2559755{/related_content_uuid}.
