1 week Ago By Vernika Awal
The whole of last week was a grand celebration – from pandal hopping till wee hours of the night, to devouring the divine bhog, to indulging in some greasy but delicious street-side food outside the pandals, it was a whirlwind of festivities. While we are still reeling from the hangover of fasting and feasting and getting ready for Diwali, now just a fortnight away, one must note that there has always been a significant pivot in the food we eat every time the season changes. As Pujo went by, there was a definite shift in the season.
The winds blow cooler, and there’s an unmistakable nip in the air. One of my favourite eateries in the city where I can make the most of this is Fig and Maple in the upscale Greater Kailash 2 market. Its lush green rooftop is like an oasis in the middle of a smog-ridden Delhi and it wins bonus points for being a pet-friendly cafe where I can lounge with my dog by my side, a thrilling novel in my hand and a delicious meal to look forward to.
This place is a far cry from the typical dining spaces in Delhi and the concept of hyperlocal and seasonal eating has been championed here by Delhi-based Chef Radhika Khandelwal, even before it became a trend that everyone jumped on to! My usual order there is the mushroom and barley risotto, this time I gave into Khandelwal’s insistence of trying some of the classics that they’re known for. You see, while I am a food writer, I am food-lover first, and I am not extremely experimental with my food, and usually stick to comfort plates. Anyway, without digressing much, let me tell you about the culinary extravaganza that Khandelwal took me on.
While moringa is an ingredient that has been designated as ‘superfood’ and one comes across a lot in the dishes in southern India, it is hardly something that one expects in a dumpling and that too with cream cheese! But, true to her style of championing local ingredients in a unique way, she offers me the odd pairing of moringa and cheese dumplings. Honestly, this dish didn’t work for me when I saw it listed in the menu, but after having tasted it, I know that it will be one of my go-to orders for sure. There was also a ‘green-goddess’ hummus that was made out of peels of gourds and served with fried desi-style tortillas which were reminiscent of a fried thepla and were quite addictive.
Trust Khandelwal to whip up a dish that is not just nutritious but also bursting with flavours – she can easily be the messiah for all the mothers who are struggling to feed healthy food to their kids who crave junk! After the meal as we settled on the fragrant terrace to catch up, amidst the myriads of microgreens and herbs that she is growing there (which also find their way into the dishes), Khandelwal recalls her journey of building Fig and Maple from scratch in 2016 after her first cafe in Shahpur Jat. Not only did she take a risky bet when she went on to open one of the country’s first ingredient-forward eatery, but her menu is quite audacious too. An avid follower of her journey on social media as well, I learn she has just returned to the capital from a foraging trip to Ladakh.
I know that we are in for a unique feast that will throw a spotlight on ingredients like Russian sage, wheat peas, rosehips and more. “This year, as autumn gives way to winter, I’m excited to feature a range of ingredients that reflect the bounty of this transitional time. Seabuckthorn, which I foraged in bulk during my recent trip to Ladakh, is one of the highlights.
Alongside, I will be featuring starfruit, cape gooseberry, buckwheat, quince, and black carrots - ingredients that are barely used in restaurants”, she shares excitedly. Her journey has been a testament to the marvels of nature and its unexpected flavours, and a chef like Khandelwal has only just begun tapping on its full potential through her exper ments in the kitchen..
