6 days Ago
Tim Allen, Chef-Patron of Michelin Star restaurant Sõ-lõ What is your current role and what does it involve? I am Chef Patron of Solo which is my first completely solo venture. I’ve worked in many wonderful places at every level, but when it’s your own business you literally find yourself doing everything. So, I’m owner, chef, kitchen porter, pot washer, DIY-er.
You just do whatever’s required that day to run the business, as well as create and plan and organise the days, weeks, months ahead. We only opened in 2021, and those three years have been something else. We now have a team of nine full-time, with additional part-time staff, delivering Michelin star food with a growing and loyal customer base.
How long have you been a chef? Three decades! I started when I was 18 and I’m 49 now. It’s something I didn’t really see coming when I was a teenager. I wanted to be a Forest Ranger or Environmental Scientist and was one of only two people at my college studying it for A-level at the time.
I was completely fascinated by the land, its geography, how we use it and how what we do as humans, has an effect on it. From the age of 13 I was working on farms, in a slaughterhouse (I can still smell it now) and in a dairy milking, bottling and delivering. I still have a very active interest in the environment, and it has such relevance to the day to day running of Sõ-lõ .
How did you first get into cooking? College was an hour away from home, so I wanted to find a way of supporting myself financially. So, my introduction to hospitality and working in a kitchen, was in a pub washing pots. I got an extra 50p an hour when I was promoted to washing and chipping potatoes.
Even though I was starting at the bottom, with the basics, I felt I belonged in the kitchen, enjoyed the camaraderie and being in that adrenalin-filled environment. It gripped me and I started to question whether I wanted another four or five years of study or getting more into the cooking. Where did you learn your craft? I really began to learn when I was working with chef Adam Sothcott at the Three Owls in Kirkburton, near my home in Huddersfield.
He saw something in me, gave me huge encouragement and put me on the right track. I was then fortunate to work with chef Scott Hessel at Mustards & Punch. He was a Roux Scholar at the age of 19 and learning from him, observing his skills, gave me a taste for more high-end cuisine.
After that I was hooked. I got work in some of the best restaurants at the time in Leeds before heading south to gain more experience and to broaden my knowledge. I was very fortunate to work in some amazing places like the Cotswolds, Essex and London.
My first time as Head Chef was at Launceston Place in Kensington, where I also gained my first Michelin star. Then a star at the Wild Rabbit in Kingham and another at Tim Allen’s Flitch of Bacon, where I was Chef/Partner and the proud winner of Michelin’s first star for Essex. I’ve basically grafted since the age of 13 and now bring all my skills, plus a well-rounded and mature approach to hospitality, to Sõ-lõ.
I was rewarded by my first Michelin star just18 months after opening. What is your signature dish? I’m not sure I have one signature dish as it changes with the place I’m in. What inspires me is what’s available nearby and in Lancashire that’s the produce that comes from the ground.
There’s no place quite like it, and I’ve not really had the opportunity to work so closely with so many great growers before. I think perhaps a cauliflower dish would be a ‘signature’ of So-Lo, as it was also on the menu when we were visited by Michelin. The best cauliflowers and brassica are grown just a few miles away, but I have fabulous suppliers across the board.
At this time of the year I'm cooking with some amazing partridge, duck and venison with some from as near as Scarisbrick! When you only want to use the best produce, it isn’t always local but Lancashire has pretty much everything you’d want. What’s been your worst cooking disaster? Not so much a cooking disaster, but something that niggles me to this day. I missed the opportunity to cook for French chef Alain Ducasse when I was at Launceston Place.
At the time he was writing his book J’aime Londres and his PA called to book him in one Saturday evening. Aside from being full that evening, I was also out of the country, so it didn’t happen. You can’t change the past but that one still gets me.
I’d still love to cook for him. What are your culinary ambitions? Aside from cooking for Alain Ducasse? In this climate, it’s just to remain busy and at the top of my game, especially when there are excellent restaurants closing all over the country. When you’re younger you want the validations, the awards and attention, but as you mature and especially when you own your own business, having a stable team and returning customers who appreciate what you do, is just as important.
At So-Lo it’s as much about the laid back vibe, accessible pricing, the great play list, excellent and friendly service, as it is about what’s on the plate. What’s on the plate is a given. What do you like to eat? I have very eclectic taste.
Right now (grabbing a rare break) I’m eating re-hashed sirloin of beef in a Yorkshire pudding sandwich from yesterday’s menu. As my precious free time is usually spent with the kids we eat locally. There’s a good Turkish place in Ormskirk that cooks everything to order, a Pizza place in Burscough that uses great ingredients.
We also love to travel so when we can we’ll get to Europe, I love Italy and the agriturismo movement and I’m really looking forward to visiting Oslo, for my first taste of Nordic food. How do you achieve a work/life balance? In truth I don’t think I have yet. Certainly not as an owner.
But what I have done is create a better more balanced work week for my team. We open at Thursday lunchtime and finish early on Sunday, which means people get some balance. I’ll come in on days we’re closed and make mousses and sauces and generally prep for the week.
The kids are in school, so we try and organise things for the times we are closed and when they’ve finished school. It helps as we live in the flat above the business and my partner Mag manages everything front of house at Sõ-lõ, so she understands. Sõ-lõ, 17 Town Green Lane, Aughton, Ormskirk L39 6SE, Tel: 01695 302170, www.
restaurantsolo.co.uk Open Thursday-Sunday Sõ-lõ is a welcoming and informal Michelin star restaurant in the village of Aughton in rural West Lancashire; offering understated luxury and exceptional dining.
Chef Tim Allen has over 30 years’ experience working in acclaimed restaurants where he has earned many industry accolades, as well as Michelin stars. Tim’s menus showcase the very best producers and deliver incredible flavours and textures, that intrigue and delight. Follow Tim on his visits to local producers on Instagram @TimAllenchef2 and @solorestaurant2021 Tim Allen is a Taste Lancashire Ambassador, supporting the work of Marketing Lancashire to raise awareness of local food and drink producers through their Taste Lancashire campaigns and activities.
www.visitlancashire.com/Taste A favourite dessert for chocolate lovers and a great idea for Christmas, this recipe comes from one of Tim Allen’s masterclasses Chocolate Fondant recipe Preparation time 15-20 minutes Cooking time 10 mins (preheated to 180°C fan) Serves 4 Ingredients 100g good quality dark chocolate 100g unsalted butter 2 x free range eggs 2 x free range egg yolks (only) 100g plain flour 100g golden caster sugar 10g cocoa powder 20g unsalted butter (at room temperature) Method 1.
Melt the chocolate and 100g of butter in a bowl over a pan of simmering hot water. Being careful not to let the base of the bowl touch the water. 2.
Place the eggs, egg yolks and sugar into another mixing bowl and set to one side. 3. Prepare your moulds by brushing the insides thoroughly with the room temperature butter.
4. Place moulds in the fridge to allow to set for 2-3 minutes. Once set, repeat the process again.
Adding another layer of butter to the inside of the moulds. 5. Dust the inside of each of the moulds with the cocoa powder, rolling each mould until the whole inside has a light dusting.
Return moulds to the fridge until required. 6. Stir the butter and chocolate mixture to combine and then remove from heat.
7. Using an electric mixer, whisk the egg and sugar until fluffy, light and glossy. This should take about 5 mins.
It should form ribbons as you lift the whisk out of the mixture. 8. Sieve the flour into the mixture and beat together using a hand whisk.
9. Ensure the chocolate mixture has cooled before moving to next step. 10.
Pour the chocolate into the egg mixture a third at a time, working it into the mix each time. 11. Pour the mixture into a piping bag, you can use a bowl or jug to support the bag as you pour in the mixture.
12. Pipe the mixture into your moulds leaving approximately 1cm from the top. 13.
Give a little tap to settle the mixture and place in the fridge until required. 14. Place in preheated oven and bake for 10 minutes.
15. After 10 mins remove from oven and allow to stand for a minute. It should be baked around the edges and just coming away from the mould.
16. Turn the chocolate fondant onto the plate. 17.
Serve as preferred. Seen here with whipped buttermilk and crushed peanut brittle..
