[INTERVIEW] Cellar master from Champagne creates unique blend for Korea

Maison Mumm Cellar Master Yann Munier speaks during an interview with The Korea Times at Casa Alexis Dosan Flagship Gallery in Seoul, Friday, with his latest champagne creation RSRV Blancs de Noirs 2018 in front. Courtesy of Pernod Ricard Korea Growing champagne market attracts French spirits guru By Ko Dong-hwan A third-generation cellar master from Champagne, France, has taken on Korea’s expanding champagne market by introducing his latest blend under one of the most renowned French champagne house brands, Maison Mumm. Yann Munier, a 44-year-old cellar master for Mumm’s premium brand RSRV, has introduced its latest product, Blancs de Noirs 2018.

He believes that RSRV champagnes, crafted from top-quality grapes sourced from the vineyards in champagne’s birthplace, have a unique appeal that will captivate Korean consumers. Not only does Munier emphasize the quality of the ingredients, but he also highlights that Blancs de Noirs pairs exceptionally well with tangy Korean dishes. Hailing from a French region celebrated for its tradition of hospitality, he likens Blancs de Noirs to the spirits his ancestors reserved for special occasions, only serving them to cherished guests and loved ones.



Munier, who works for the Champagne & Cognac branch of the French global liquor conglomerate Pernod Ricard Group, unveiled Blancs de Noirs to Korean media outlets on Friday. The product is scheduled to hit local fine dining restaurants early next year. This launch also marks the first RSRV product since 2022, when Pernod Ricard Korea previously introduced three other RSRV champagnes.

Founded in 1827 by Georges Hermann Mumm, Maison Mumm began the process of creating a latest batch of B lancs de Noirs in 2018, during a period when the climate conditions for champagne production were “nearly perfect,” according to Munier. He utilized “pinot noir” grapes harvested from Verzenay, a village in Champagne’s Montagne de Reims region, and aged the “cuvée” (blend) for a minimum of six years. “Blancs de Noirs was born out of rarely ideal climate conditions for growing grapes in terms of precipitation and temperature.

The fruits were harvested from local vineyards in Champagne that have been managed by Maison Mumm for decades,” Munier said. “The outcome was a champagne near perfection.” Blancs de Noirs arrives as Korea's champagne market has seen signific ant growth over the past five years.

According to International Wine & Spirit Research, the Korean market grew by a double digit in annual growth rate from 2018 to 2023, reflecting an annual growth rate of 10 percent in 2023 compared to the previous year. Munier notes that this trend aligns with the increa sing number of Korean consumers looking to incorporate champagne into their diverse culinary experiences. Yann Munier, left, and Pernod Ricard Korea's marketing director Miguel Angel Pascual Nombela, pose with RSRV Blancs de Noirs 2018 during a press conference for the product's launch in Korea, at Casa Alexis Dosan Flagship Gallery in Seoul, Friday.

Courtesy of Pernod Ricard Korea Miguel Angel Pascual Nombela, marketing director at Pernod Ricard Korea, attributes the ongoing sophistication of Korean gastronomy to the rising demand for champagne. “The Korean market is experiencing normalization following the COVID-19 pandemic. The pandemic period (due to the social distancing regulations it caused) w as a very good opportunity for consumers to discover new things beyond the big categories like soju and beer,” Pascual said.

Pascual highlighted the emergence of Michelin-starred restaurants in Seoul, the p opularity of cooking competition shows on OTT platforms, and the increasing use of online services for booking high-end restaurants as indicators of the upscale growth in Korea's gastronomy market. "A wide range of age groups, including the young MZ generation, started showing interest in champagnes. Gastronomy in Korea has never been more popular,” he said.

"Of course, the champagne market in Korea is yet much smaller than that of whiskeys or wine. But the number of champagne consumers are certainly growing." Efforts in Champagne In the Champagne region where Munier grew up, the production of the region’s eponymous wine — now synonymous with luxurious drinking experiences worldwide — has had to adapt to climate change.

For instance, the grape harvesting period has shortened by about 30 days, impacting the quality of the fruit. The region, a ccording to Munier, has begun employing new methods to adopt to the changing environment and keep producing world-class champagnes. One such method is regenerative agriculture, which involves allowing vineyard terrains to remain unused for a period to help the soil recover and imp rove conditions for the next grape harvest.

“It’s giving nature a space for rest,” Munier said. “I’ve been particularly fond of Champagne terrains. And to create a good champagne, not just natural elements but also human efforts are critical.

” At Maison Mumm Reims in France, an underground tunnel invites visitors to check out champagne cellars and how champagnes are made. Courtesy of Pernod Ricard Korea Due to climate change, he has also learned to create new flavors during the aging process in the cellar using a method calle d malolactic fermentation. When he identifies certain vintages that are particularly favorable during tastings, he focuses on t hose by producing larger quantities.

“I cannot say that grapes from the 1980s are same in quality as those from 2024,” Munier said. “So what we do is focus on blending grapes of varying qualities such as pinot noirs or chardonnays. The method, in turn, has given us a wider range of choices to work with when making champagnes.

” Munier thinks Blancs de Noirs pairs well with Korean food, especially with seafood or spicy dishes. “It’s perfect for dining experiences, specially with strongly savory dishes like Pecorino Romano cheese or lamb. The champagne gives that missing balance,” Munier said.

“As to Korean food, I’m also excited to find out how many good pairings there will be.” RSRV, an acronym f or “reserve,” represe nts a unique tradition in Champagne where local residents serve the most precious champagne from their secret private collections to treat special guests. This history inspired Maison Mumm to use only top-quality cuvée for the RSRV lineup.

The company has established a brand zone called Maison Mumm Reims, a 25-kilometer-long underground cellar in the French city of Reims, to highlight its connection to the region’s deep-rooted tradition of producing quality champagne. Visitors can tour the facility and learn about the champagne-making process, attracting approximately 40,000 visitors each year. “It’s been a long tradition in Champagne that people share good champagnes rather than drink them alone,” Munier said.

“And when visitors come to our region, we nowadays invite them to this reception center called Brand Zone for a little experience.”.