2 weeks Ago By [email protected] (Jenna Campbell)
For almost a year the lights at Greens in West Didsbury have been switched off. In January this year, the much-loved restaurant co-owned by Simon Rimmer closed its doors after 33 years. Along with his business partner Simon Connolly, the TV chef announced that their time on Lapwing Lane had come to an end, telling customers a large rent increase made it 'impossible' for them to continue.
It sparked a huge outpouring of sympathy from across the hospitality sector - and the local community. Neighbouring businesses shared their concerns over what the loss of such a high-profile restaurant would mean for their own futures and the area more widely. READ MORE: First images of lavish new Greater Manchester steakhouse as opening date revealed The restaurant has lain empty ever since, with the occasional passer-by stopping outside to take a quick look inside to see if anyone had decided to take on the lease and revive the dining heavyweight.
Walk down the leafy suburban street today though, and it’s a very different picture. The winter sun pours through the cavernous glass windows, shedding light on a whole crew of builders, chefs and waiting staff busy preparing the venue for its next chapter. Porta Tapas' new site on Lapwing Lane in West Didsbury (Image: Jason Roberts /Manchester Evening News) That’s because the brothers behind popular Porta Tapas have taken over the former Greens site, giving it a new lease of life.
It’s a daunting prospect to take on a space with so much history - but brothers Ben and Joe Wright have put a lot of love and care into the reimagining of this venue. The restaurateur brothers opened the first Porta in Chester in 2012, before launching in Altrincham in 2016 and Chapel Street, Salford in 2018. Like their other spots, the Didsbury menu will showcase Spanish tapas classics as well as daily specials, with many ingredients imported from across Spain to add the element of extra authenticity.
The restaurant, which boasted a mocha exterior when it closed earlier this year has been given a fresh lick of paint. Unbeknownst to them, the new shade of bottle green was the same one that the building used to boast - a rather serendipitous vote of confidence for the pair. Those who live locally will know the windows were plastered for ‘to let’ signs for months, but as Ben explains there was a conversation going on for a while to secure the spot.
Porta Tapas' new site on Lapwing Lane in West Didsbury (Image: Jason Roberts /Manchester Evening News) “The agents acting for the landlords put together a shortlist of businesses they felt would potentially be a fit, culturally as well as to an extent financially, but they obviously wanted a smaller, independent business, and one with a track record as well,” he explains. “It’s been an ongoing process and conversation about what we would do and how we would renovate. It’s also been about really doing our research on the location and the venue.
“Credit to both Simons who ran the operation here before too. Simon Connolly has been really helpful, we spoke to him fairly early on and some staff from Greens have come over to us. He put us in touch with a few of them that he thought would be a good fit.
“But the fact that they left did make us a bit nervous and we had to reassure ourselves that this was going to be a really exciting journey. We could renovate it in a way that was sympathetic, but in a completely different way to what it was before.” Porta Tapas' new site on Lapwing Lane in West Didsbury (Image: Jason Roberts /Manchester Evening News) Even though the doors have not yet officially opened, the pair say the reception from the wider community has been positive too.
“It’s been really lovely, and part of what we’ve always looked for with our other sites is that feeling of community, people who are around and want to eat out during the week, and it’s not just used as a Saturday night destination.” “There's a lot of good food and drink places already here in Didsbury and we wanted to make sure that we fitted with it rather than jarred or duplicated. For example, if one of the restaurants already here was a Spanish tapas restaurant we wouldn’t have done it, but I think it complements the other businesses.
” Inside the restaurant, there's a distinct feeling of having stepped into a Spanish taverna. Stools line the window giving diners the chance to indulge in a good glass of red wine and people watching, while into the main space there are a variety of nooks, where those popping in for a couple of plates and a beer can tuck themselves away. Like their other sites, the artwork has been carefully curated.
Posters nodding to Spanish seaside towns and urban centres as well as its cuisine and sporting events hang carefully, and are lit up by rattan-style lamps and the natural light pouring in from outside. On the menu, guests can order from a curated selection of tapas plates including classics like tortilla (£4.95), patatas bravas (£5), and fried squid (£9.
50) (Image: Jason Roberts /Manchester Evening News) Those accustomed to dining with Porta will know that they don’t take bookings - a blessing for many heading into the festive season and wanting to eat a meal in peace without jostling for space with office Christmas parties. It’s also about creating a certain neighbourhood restaurant feel. “It means it’s relaxed and easy going, " says Ben, “If you do have to wait, that's part of the vibe, squeezed in the corner over there with a glass of wine.
” On the menu, guests can order from a curated selection of tapas plates including classics like tortilla (£4.95), patatas bravas (£5), and fried squid (£9.50), as well as more elevated fare including chargrilled flat iron steak with guindilla tximitxurri - a type of Chimichurri - served pink (£11.
50). “There’s a continuation so a lot of the menu is very similar to the other sites, " explains Joe. “There’s things like croquetas and tortilla, and then there’s three or four dishes which are a little bit different from site to site, so each place will become known for a dish.
In Salford, people tend to associate it with our rabbit and octopus dishes, so hopefully here we’ll get known for something else here in Didsbury too." Porta opens in Didsbury this weekend (Image: Jason Roberts /Manchester Evening News) Diners can also pile the table high with dishes using some of the finest Spanish produce including Jamon Iberico (£8.75), Cantabrian tuna belly with confit piquillo peppers (£8.
95), and a selection of Charcuterie spanning Lomo, Chorizo, Salchichon Iberico (£6.96). Like many businesses, they understand that bringing this quality comes at a higher cost - but it’s not something they’re willing to compromise on, even given the current climate and ongoing issues affecting the hospitality industry.
“No doubt it’s very difficult with all the costs going up, whether that’s food, energy or staff costs - it’s gone up in every respect so it’s definitely difficult,” says Joe. “But it’s positive enough to open a new site.” Porta Didsbury is the latest site from brother Ben and Joe Wright (Image: Jason Roberts /Manchester Evening News) When it comes to the menus, Ben says it’s a case of thinking ‘creatively’, even if the price of olive oil has doubled in recent months.
“It’s not like you can pass on every cost to the customer and it’s our job to work out how to do that. If you did pass on every cost, you would have a tapas bar where every dish costs £15 and would have no customers. “Part of it is creative menu writing and also doing things very well.
It all comes back to value for money and people have to feel welcome. It’s really about bringing the community with you and that’s what we hope to do here.” Porta opens in Didsbury this weekend.
41-43 Lapwing Ln, West Didsbury, Manchester M20 2NT..
