1 week Ago By [email protected] (Neil Gallagher)
As the elephant snaffled yet another piece of fruit from my outstretched hand, I chanced I saw a look of contentment in her eyes. I may have been transferring my own feelings on to this majestic beast, but you could hardly blame me for that, as Elephant Hills has a serene beauty that leaves you in awe of the nature all around you. The camp, deep in the southern Thai jungle, provides visitors with a chance to get close to these mighty animals in their natural habitat in the most ethical way possible.
The 10 females, rescued from logging camps and circuses, live out their days in a 25-acre wilderness, with their individual mahouts, a sort of lifelong carer, providing for their every need. We were there to help feed them, but our meagre efforts barely put a dent in the 300kg of pumpkins, coconuts, bananas and other fruits they consume every day. But they seemed happy enough to share their home with us for an hour or two.
Safari, so good. Visitors to Elephant Hills, which has won a string of green and ethical awards, stay in luxurious tents – think glamping rather than Glastonbury – a 10-minute drive from the main attraction. The tents have all mod cons, including a flushing toilet and a shower, and are perfect for a two or three-night stay.
Simple, but wholesome buffet meals are eaten on long benches and there is a bar and a small pool to wash away the heat and grit of the jungle. After our visit to the elephants we took to the water for a kayak trip down the Sok river. Surrounded by mangrove and banyan trees we made our way downstream on the lookout for long-tailed monkeys.
We found plenty and had a rather close encounter with a cobra, coiled languidly around a over-hanging branch. Later our guide, Pond, said if the cobra had taken a bite out of one of us, we would have just three hours to get to hospital before the venom did its worst. I didn’t ask the obvious question – is there a hospital less than three hours away? Sometimes, ignorance is the best option.
I must confess I’m not a natural camper – give me a luxurious hotel any day – but even I marvelled at the dawn chorus, really more like an orchestra, the birds provided the following morning. Our second day in the jungle was spent at Elephant Hills’ sister camp in the rainforest, where guests stay on floating luxury tents on a contributory to the vast, emerald-coloured Cheow Larn Lake. After lunch, we were able to explore the river in canoes.
Although beautiful, the trip was tempered by my overriding fear I would get hopelessly lost – and had no idea how you scream “Help!” in Thai. Our final activity in the jungle was a trek the following morning. I consider myself a reasonably fit, regular walker – I even have special trainers – but I was not prepared for the energy-sapping heat and humidity.
Animals were scarce too. I suspect they were keeping cool in the shade or hiding from the red-faced, panting tourists. There was a very welcome respite at the end of the trek.
A brilliant, but simple cooking demonstration of Thai green curry and barbecued pork lifted my spirits and nourished my soul (and my stomach). To say food is important in Thailand is a huge understatement. They love it, are proud of it and want to share it with all their visitors.
This was apparent as soon as we arrived at our first hotel, the Sofitel Phokeethra in Krabi, about a two-hour drive from Phuket airport. Between a late lunch and a barbecue banquet on the beach we fitted in a cooking lesson with the hotel’s master chefs. To be honest, I wanted to lounge by the pool after a long flight, but I was soon engrossed in the lesson.
We learned to make green papaya salad, chicken green curry and mango sticky rice. All delicious even in my inept hands. The hotel was built in a grand Victorian style, with large rooms filled with teak furniture overlooking the beach and the Andaman Sea.
The other vast stretch of water is the 400-metre long pool, which ran the length of the hotel and included a swim-up bar. After all, who wants to get out of the water when you need a beer or cocktail? The pool is divided into sections with an adults-only end and a children’s section with an obstacle course for the young – and the young at heart. There is also a nine-hole golf course and wellness spa offering Thai massages and the like.
It also has five restaurants, with the pick of the bunch being the White Lotus, serving some of the most delicious Thai and Indian food I have ever tasted. The hotel prides itself on providing guests with bespoke experiences, whether it is dining on the beach, cooking lessons for two, or sampling the hotel’s own gin. While staying at the Sofitel, we took a boat trip into Phang Nga Bay.
After navigating our way through the mangrove swamps we arrived at Khao Phing Kan. It’s now known, to tourists at least, as James Bond Island after it provided the beautiful and stunning backdrop for Roger Moore’s 1974 The Man With The Golden Gun. Ko Panyi, our next destination was a world away from shaken, not stirred Martinis and international espionage.
The village was established in the 18th century by Javanese fisherman. It was built on stilts of mangrove wood as at the time only Thais were able to own land. When you step off the boat you could be forgiven for thinking that the island just consists of a few waterfront restaurants.
But the real magic of the place lies behind them. Here you find narrow walkways, stalls and a bustling, if small, Muslim community which has adapted to cater for tourists while maintaining a unique way of life. Not only that, it also has its own floating football pitch, built by youngsters inspired by the 1986 World Cup in Mexico.
And now, apparently, Panyee FC is one of the most successful youth teams in southern Thailand. My final hotel of the TUI trip was the Robinson at Khao Lak. The hotel is so vast, staff offer a golf buggy “taxi service” but I preferred the 10-minute walk along the beautiful sweeping sands – particularly as I rewarded myself with a spicy margarita at the beachfront bar.
There is nothing more relaxing than watching the sun slowly dip into the ocean with a cocktail in hand. I stand corrected – a Thai massage in the serene surroundings of the Wellfit spa was more relaxing..
. but only just. The hotel has a mountain of things to do, including a gym, water sports, tennis and golf.
And youngsters are well catered for too with clubs, playrooms and their own pool. There are five pools in total and because the hotel covers such a wide area they never felt too busy. As ever the food was a highlight.
I usually can’t stand a hotel buffet but the food here – particularly the freshly prepared dishes – was gorgeous. Sign up for FREE to Mirror Travel and discover dream escapes, latest travel advice and more JOIN OUR WHATSAPP GROUP: Discover your next dream getaway in the UK or abroad by joining our free Mirror Travel WhatsApp community HERE . GET THE NEWSLETTER: Or sign up to the Mirror Travel newsletter for a weekly dose of the best holiday deals, travel warnings, expert advice and hidden gems, straight to your inbox.
On our final day (sob) we were back on the water for a spot of island hopping in the Similan National Park. We visited Donald Duck Bay, famed for its rock formations. The white sandy beaches and crystal clear waters were spectacular and watching some more colourful creatures was the highlight of the day – and possibly the week.
Between islands our catamaran’s crew took us to some of their favourite snorkelling spots. Watching tropical fish swim before my eyes was like being inside the most wondrous nature documentary. And just when I thought it couldn’t get better a giant turtle swam underneath me, keeping a watchful eye on my progress.
This serene beast moved through the water with such grace I was in awe of nature once again. The turtle reminded me of the peaceful, contented elephants – and I realised how lucky I was too. Book the holiday TUI offers a 14 night full-board multi-centre holiday to Phuket, Thailand, from £1,925pp with two nights at Elephants Hill and 12 at Robinson Khao Lak.
Direct flights from Manchester on November 12, with transfers. The James Bond Island speedboat tour and the Similan Island tour both cost £97pp. tui.
co.uk More info at f anclubthailand.co.
uk.
