2 days Ago By Janet Podolak
When winds whistle through uncaulked cracks around the windows and errant chills seep into rooms, a steaming hot bowl of soup calls to all.Cold winter days make soup so very compelling.“Soup for me is an entire meal,” claims Loretta Paganini, who operates both the Loretta Paganini School of Cooking for consumers and the International Culinary Arts and Sciences Institute, a college level program for culinary professionals.
Both are based in Chester Township.Although there are shortcuts with purchased bone broth and bouillon mixtures, the most memorable soups begin with a homemade stock. Stock, comprised of chicken or beef bones, meats and fresh vegetables, is simmered with water for hours at a low temperature until it yields its goodness as a premium ingredient.
Loretta Paganini shows a class of soup makers how to strain a finished stock. (courtesy Loretta Paganini School of Cooking)“At ICASI it’s made every day since we use it for so many things,” she said, noting how the scent of a simmering stock builds anticipation, beckoning the cold, the hungry and even the curious to lift the stockpot’s lid and inhale deeply.She insists that would-be chefs and home cooks recognize the value of good quality, fresh ingredients and understand the importance of respecting and treating them the right way when making a stock.
The results reflect that care, yielding a stock that can be sealed in a plastic bag after being frozen into cubes in an ice cube tray and kept in the freezer to use for months before it’s depleted. Homemade stock not only is the basis for a great soup, it’s perfect for sauces and even gravies.“Roasting the beef bones first gives beef stock an extraordinary depth of flavor,” she says.
Roast the vegetables alongside the bones, she says. Roast for at least 45 minutes in an oven set at 325 degrees.That same depth of flavor for a chicken stock can be achieved by including a whole chicken foot in the stock ingredients, she said.
“It’s loaded with gelatins that increase the flavor.”Chicken feet can be purchased at Cleveland’s West Side Market and most Asian markets.“No matter what the weather, nothing beats the fragrant taste of a steaming cup of deliciously sweet onion soup,” Paganini says.
“I like to make it in large batches and then save it in the freezer for a quick meal.”There’s no hurrying a great soup stock.“They all start with cold water and need skimming when the ingredients heat and begin to release their proteins,” she says.
Skimming the stock will keep it clear and free of undesirable bits of scum.Loretta Paganini tells members of a soup-making class about techniques that make a big difference when preparing stock for soup. (courtesy Loretta Paganini School of Cooking)After beef stock has been simmered for six to eight hours, the bones and vegetables are removed and discarded and the stock is strained through a cheesecloth-lined sieve or chinoise.
A chinoise is a cone shaped strainer with a fine mesh and usually comes on a stand. Those who make soup often find one to be very handy.Finished stock should be cooled quickly in the refrigerator and covered so fats solidify as they come to the surface.
Remove solidified fat the next day and discard. The stock is ready for use.“Every culture has its own version of chicken soup,” Paganini said.
“My favorite is Italian Wedding Soup with its tiny meatballs.“Soup therapy cures the sniffles. All my grandkids love it.
”Beef StockIngredients3 pounds beef bones, roasted in the oven until golden brown3 large onions, rough chop, roasted8 stalks celery, including some leaves, rough chop, roasted3 large carrots, peeled, rough chop, roasted6 to 8 peppercorns3 bay leaves6 parsley stems3 sprigs fresh thyme6 quarts cold waterInstructionsPlace roasted beef bones, onions, celery, carrots, parsley, peppercorns, thyme and bay leaves in large soup or stock pot. Add cold water. Bring to a boil.
Reduce heat and gently skim the scum that rises to the top throughout the cooking process.Simmer for 6 to 8 hours. Strain stock through a fine mesh strainer with cheesecloth or a chinois.
Discard bones and vegetables. Cool stock quickly and thoroughly in the refrigerator. Remove solidified fat from the surface before using it.
Store in fridge for up to 3 weeks or freeze for up to 6 months.Makes 3-4 quarts.A perfect chicken stock that’s skimmed while cooking and cooled quickly once the fat is removed is easily transformed into a delicious chicken broth with croutons.
(courtesy Loretta Paganini School of Cooking)Chicken StockIngredients2 lbs. chicken pieces, necks and wings2 carrots, chopped3 celery stalks with leaves, chopped1 onion, chopped4 sprigs fresh parsley6 peppercorns1 bay leaf2 sprigs fresh thyme3 quarts cold waterInstructionsPlace ingredients in a large pot. Bring to a boil.
Cook for 15 to 20 minutes, skimming off the scum as it rises to the surface. Reduce heat to low. Simmer uncovered stock for 3 hours.
Cool stock and strain, discarding vegetables and chicken pieces. Refrigerate overnight. Remove fat from top.
Makes about 2 quarts.The freshest vegetables cut into bite sized pieces are the ideal ingredients for the best soups. (courtesy Loretta Paganini School of Cooking)Chicken Noodle SoupIngredients2 quarts chicken stock, defatted1 chicken breast, boneless and skinless (about 6 oz.
)2 large carrots, peeled and small diced1 large onion, peeled and small diced2 stalks celery, small diced1 parsley root, peeled and diced1 teaspoon chopped parsley1 teaspoon thyme1 teaspoon sea salt1 Tablespoon grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese1 pound small shell noodlesInstructionsPut chicken stock in a soup pot and bring to a boil. Add chicken breast and return to a boil. Skim the fat from the surface and lower the heat.
Gently simmer, uncovered, for 20 minutes. Remove chicken and strain the stock.Add the rest of the ingredients to the stock.
Add noodles. Simmer 15 minutes longer. Cut up the chicken breast and add it to the soup.
Season the soup to taste with salt and pepper.Serves 8-10.John Ovsek looks on as his wife, Deb, uses an immersion blender to smooth out the soup they’ve made in a class.
(courtesy Loretta Paganini School of Cooking)Roasted Onion Soup GratinIngredients1/4 cup unsalted butter2 Tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil6 onions, roasted and chopped2 cloves garlic, minced1 Tablespoon Sherry wine1 Tablespoon Cognac1 quart defatted beef stock1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce2 bay leaves1 teaspoon sea salt1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper8 crostini4 ounces Gruyere cheese, grated1 teaspoon fresh chives, choppedInstructionsRoast peeled onions at 350°F for 45 minutes wrapped in foil with the top and bottoms cut off.Heat butter and oil in a large stockpot over medium-high heat. Add the roasted onions and garlic, and cook over medium heat for 5 to 10 minutes, stirring occasionally,Add the Sherry and Cognac, scraping up any brown bits in the pan, and simmer uncovered for 5 minutes.
Add beef stock, Worcestershire sauce, bay leaves, salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, and simmer uncovered for 30 minutes. Remove bay leaves and taste for seasoning.
Preheat the broiler and position a rack 5 inches below the heat source. Ladle the soup into heat-proof serving bowls, top with crostini, sprinkle generously with grated Gruyere, and broil for 3 to 5 minutes, until the cheese is melted and bubbly.Sprinkle with fresh chives and serve hot.
Serves 8.Italian Wedding soup typically is prepared with tiny meatballs, but this version boasts large ones. (courtesy Loretta Paganini School of Cooking)Italian Wedding SoupFor polpettine (meatballs):Ingredients1 pound lean ground meat2 cups fresh breadcrumbs2 Tablespoons grated Parmigiano Reggiano2 cloves garlic, minced1 Tablespoon fresh Italian parsley, chopped1/2 teaspoon thyme1/2 cup milk2 large eggsSalt and pepper, to tasteInstructionsIncorporate all the ingredients together.
Shape into small meatballs, and place on a large cookie sheet and bake in a preheated 350°F oven for 20 minutes. Remove and reserve.For soup:Ingredients4 cups chicken stock2 cups spinach, shredded4 large eggs1/4 cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese1 teaspoon salt1/2 teaspoon white pepper1/8 teaspoon nutmegInstructionsHeat stock in a large pot.
Add meatballs and cook. Whisk eggs, nutmeg and cheese together in a large bowl.Stir mixture into the stock.
Add spinach, salt and pepper, and simmer for 20 minutes.Serve soup with freshly grated Parmesan cheese.Serves 8.
Source: Recipes courtesy Loretta Paganini.
