14 hours Ago
If you ever find yourself in the east coast of Malaysia, one dish you cannot ignore is gulai ikan tongkol. This fragrant fish curry, a staple in Kelantanese and Terengganu cuisines, is often served alongside nasi dagang, a unique rice dish steamed with coconut milk and fenugreek. At the heart of it all is the firm, flavourful ikan tongkol, also known as skipjack tuna, a fish that holds its own against the bold onslaught of spices and coconut richness.
Skipjack tuna (Katsuwonus pelamis) is a sturdy, deep-sea fish known for its lean, slightly gamey flesh. Unlike its delicate, flaky counterparts, this tuna doesn’t fall apart easily, making it ideal for slow simmering. Gulai ikan tongkol is an east coast fish curry usually served alongside ‘nasi dagang’.
— Photos: ARIQ HIDAYAT/The Star In Malaysia, it is often used in dried or preserved forms, but in gulai, it is gently poached to perfection, absorbing the tangy and aromatic notes of the dish. This fish may be a bit big to handle, so it is best to have the fishmonger gut and butcher it into manageable 3cm steaks. The bones, head and trimmings can be reserved to make a flavour-packed fish stock, enhancing the depth of the gulai’s gravy.
While gulai generally refers to a type of Malay curry rich with coconut milk and spices, Kelantanese-style gulai ikan tongkol stands out for its unique balance of tang and creaminess. The secret? A generous dose of asam gelugur (garcinia cambogia) and asam jawa (tamarind pulp), which cut through the coconut milk’s richness, creating a beautifully layered flavour profile. Adding to this complexity is bilimbi (Averrhoa bilimbi) or belimbing buloh − a small, green, sour fruit that enhances the dish with a natural acidity.
Often used in traditional Malay and Nyonya cooking, bilimbi contributes a sharp, almost citrus-like tartness that deepens the overall flavour. It subtly amplifies the freshness of the tuna and rounds out the richness of the coconut milk, making every spoonful a harmonious blend of bold and bright notes. If you scour your neighbourhood, you may find a tree bearing fruit along its main trunk.
Many a generous neighbour would usually let you pick as much as you like, as overripe fruits simply fall and rot on the ground. Making the fish stock separately ensures a smooth, bone-free dish while yielding a rich gravy. In fact, the sauce is so irresistible that you may find yourself reaching for an extra helping of rice.
My wife even asked her brother to go to the mamak stall down the street to buy roti canai so that we can wipe the bowl clean. Gulai ikan tongkol isn’t just a meal; it’s a comforting embrace of nostalgia, a taste of the Malaysian east coast and a testament to the art of slow cooking. Whether enjoyed at a bustling morning market or in the comfort of your own kitchen, this dish is proof that great flavours come from patience, tradition and a little bit of love.
‘Ikan tongkol’ or skipjack tuna is an excellent choice of fish as it is lean and holds its own against the bold spices and slow simmering. Gulai Ikan Tongkol Spice blend 4 tbsp coriander seeds 2 tbsp fennel seeds 1⁄2 tsp fenugreek seeds 1 tsp black pepper Marinate both the fish flesh and bones with salt and tamarind juice, with the addition of galangal for the flesh. Spice paste 100ml cooking oil 150g chilli paste 280g shallots 30g garlic 18g ginger 30g galangal When the spices are sauteed until fragrant, deglaze the wok with fish stock, coconut milk and bring to a gentle simmer.
Ingredients 1.5kg skipjack tuna, save head, tail, bones and trimmings for the stock 1 tbsp salt 2 tbsp asam jawa, soaked in 1⁄2 cup hot water 30g galangal, julienned 150ml cooking oil 12g belacan 1 tbsp palm sugar 2 cups coconut milk 6 pods red chillies 8 pods bilimbi Fish stock Tuna head, tail, bones and trimmings 3 cups cold water 8 slices asam gelugur Save the bones, head and tail to be simmered together with ‘asam gelugur’ for the fish stock. Directions Trim bones from the fish, reserving the head, tail and trimmings for the stock.
Place the fish flesh in a separate plate. Season the fish and bones with salt and tamarind juice. Place the fish stock ingredients into a pot and simmer over medium heat for about 30-45 minutes until reduced to 1 cup, strain and then set aside.
Marinate the fish flesh with galangal for 30 minutes in the chiller. Grind the dry spices into a fine powder in an electric mill and set aside. Puree the wet spices into a fine paste in an electric blender and set aside.
Heat the oil in the wok and saute the spice paste until the oil splits and the paste darkens into a deep red hue. Add the dry spices and saute until fragrant. Deglaze the wok with the fish stock, then stir in belacan and palm sugar until dissolved.
Stir in coconut milk and bring to a gentle simmer. Rinse the marinated fish to remove excess salt, then add it to the simmering liquid along with whole bilimbi and red chillies. Simmer over medium heat for about 5 minutes until the fish is just cooked.
Serve immediately with nasi dagang, coconut rice, steamed white rice, or even roti canai to mop up the luscious gravy..
