2 weeks Ago By Morgan Fargo
There was once a time when a decent cleanser, toner and moisturiser would constitute a robust skincare routine , but now there are multistep peels, encapsulated ingredients and, honestly, more acids than we know what to do with. Rather than get lost in the weeds of viral trends, we asked the experts how to properly look after your skin – no filler required (proverbial or otherwise). Laddering A method championed by Daniel Isaacs, Medik8’s chief product officer and founding partner, laddering refers to starting an active ingredient at a lower potency and working your way up to a higher strength over time.
“Laddering – going from rung to rung – allows the skin to adjust to potent ingredients such as vitamin A and C gradually,” he explains. “In sensitive skin , it reduces the risk of irritation or dryness. In normal and oily skin types, it can help build resilience.
” Of course, there’s the temptation to start with a higher-strength product and use less of it or less frequently, but Isaacs says this is flawed thinking. “Starting at a mild strength and building up helps the skin adapt without overwhelming it.” His rule of thumb is to use an entire tube, jar or container of something before stepping up to the next rung and only if your skin isn’t showing signs of irritation.
Fasting Fans of the viral skin fasting protocol – which dictates abstaining from using skincare products or washing your face for a period of 24 hours or longer – report that doing so has helped heal angry, irritated skin , but the experts aren’t so keen. “Skin fasting lacks robust scientific backing,” cautions consultant dermatologist Anjali Mahto. “I can see the appeal for people overwhelmed by complex routines, but stopping everything can cause issues such as clogged pores and irritation.
” Instead, she recommends paring your skincare routine down to a gentle cleanser, a moisturiser that suits your skin type and an SPF during the day. “These basic steps maintain the skin barrier but give it a break from active ingredients,” she explains. One thing that should never be skipped? Washing your face in the morning.
“As we sleep, our skin carries out several processes,” Mahto describes, “so it’s essential to remove the sweat, sebum and bacteria from your face – whatever your skin type is.” Flooding If perma-thirsty skin is your main bugbear, skin flooding might be the answer. The art of layering moisture-attracting products over one another, Adonia Medical Clinic founder and medical director Ifeoma Ejikeme says it works well for improving skin hydration, as well as barrier function.
And, while there’s not a set way to “flood”, there are certain ingredients to stick to: “Humectants, like hyaluronic acid and glycerine, attract water from the environment towards them,” explains Ejikeme, noting that this is what helps draw more moisture into the skin. Don’t apply them all at once though. If your mist , serum and moisturiser all contain humectants, apply each in a thin layer and wait for them to absorb before going in with the next.
Cycling When New York-based dermatologist Whitney Bowe first uttered the phrase “skin cycling” on TikTok, few could have predicted the effect it would have. Spawning an entire chapter of positive testimonials, reviews and endorsements from other fans and fellow industry members, it’s one of the few social media trends that feels efficacious and sensible. Essentially the practice of rotating active ingredients throughout the week, Bowe advocates for splitting actives up rather than layering them.
On night one, use a resurfacing exfoliating acid, such as glycolic, azelaic or lactic. Then, on night two, reach for your retinol. The next two nights are for recovery, so pick something cushioning and cocooning to repair your skin barrier and replenish any lost moisture.
“The key benefit of Bowe’s approach is that people can reap the rewards of different active ingredients without overwhelming the skin or causing irritation,” says Isaacs. The only drawback, he says, is that it could feel like slow progress for people with more resilient or tolerant skin. Sandwiching Skincare sandwiching is exactly what it sounds like: sandwiching moisture and active ingredients into the skin.
However, there are two strands to this trend. First, there’s retinol sandwiching, in which you sandwich (starting to sound weird yet?) vitamin A between two layers of moisturiser on the skin. It’s thought to reduce irritation and help with absorption, something Mahto says is particularly helpful for sensitive skin: “It creates a buffer that can help with reducing dryness, redness and peeling associated with retinol while still allowing the skin to build tolerance.
” Then there’s moisture sandwiching, which is slightly different but still highly effective: simply apply hydrating products to damp skin, sandwiching the moisture from the water into your skin. Aesthetic doctor Sophie Shotter’s advice here is to stick to a humectant to draw even more moisture in: “Sandwiching can work well, but I’d recommend layering a humectant on damp skin rather than another product or treatment that could alter how the humectant works.”.
