3 days Ago By Shivya Manchanda
Patola patterns in gold leafing dance on the walls of Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla's latest store in Jio World Plaza, Mumbai, that holds archival pieces from 37 years ago, along with newer creations. “The store has a surreal peacock display handcrafted in 'Shola' that also features gota flowers blooming among the bird's feathers,” say Abu Jani & Sandeep Khosla in an exclusive conversation with Vogue India ahead of their opening tonight. Every one of their brick-and-mortar stores echo a different palette, revealing multiple stories and creating a mood board within the walls.
In Mumbai, they embody nostalgia. “We have used a mix of embossing, quilting, carving and cutting techniques done by hand to make the store feel like a museum. Even the walls feature handcrafted aabla work and the chairs in our meeting room are made with hand-printed Ajrak ,” add Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla.
After collaborating for 39 years, if you think creative differences aren't common, think again. “There's a saying that if two people agree on everything, one of them is not needed. Abu and I are as different as chalk and cheese, but together, we debate and dream.
Disagreement is a natural part of the process...
What matters is that in the end, we're both gratified by what we have co-created.” Ahead, read excerpts from their conversation with Vogue. Vogue India: Any particular garments or collections on display that hold deep meaning for you? AJSK: We are revisiting our 'Crushed Silk' and 'Mirror' collections from 37 years ago.
It's a mix of archival and new pieces. The store will also feature our signature embroidery techniques reinterpreted into fresh styles, handcrafted especially for the launch, like Chikankari reimagined into shirts and tunics. 'Tharad', 'Pearl Stone' and 'Raj' collections will also dazzle in store, along with wearable marvels in multicoloured resham and maximal concept blouses created with sarong saris .
The menswear includes the iconic 'Crushed Silk' collection alongside the impossibly intricate 'Shadow', 'Ajrak' and 'Resham Jaali' ranges. The space will also display 'Tharad' and 'Bakhia' by Mard by Abu Sandeep. VI: How important is jewellery in your garments, given you've created blouses completely out of polki and emerald pieces? AJSK: We have worked on jewellery-inspired concept blouses since the beginning of our careers.
Our book, India Fantastique , features a collection of such garments, too, including a real jadau blouse created for Poonam Bhagat. More recently, we handcrafted an intricate piece for Isha Ambani with jewellery sourced from Gujarat and Rajasthan and pieces from her collection. Jewellery is an undeniable treasure of maximalist couture.
VI: A bridal trend you think will dominate weddings in 2025? AJSK: Modern brides unite in their desire to honour tradition and heritage today. So, the silhouettes remain the same. Hopefully, we'll always dress proudly Indian for our grand weddings that are all about colour, celebration, embroidery and fabric.
VI: Any anecdotes you can share from the making of this store? AJSK: We've poured years of knowledge, ideas and excitement into crafting at a level that has given us immense joy. Our childhood fantasies, love for embroidery, and belief in celebration—it all comes alive with every detail of this maximal paradise. Also read: Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla’s latest campaign spotlights the Punjabi folk dance, giddha 34 pictures and videos that take you inside Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla’s opulent home in Mumbai Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla on bridal wear, films and the joy of designing.
