2 days Ago
Pasta with Sausage and Fennel Ragu. Peggy Cormary/photos; Lisa Cherkasky/food styling, for The Washington Post There are many foods I grew up eating that have stood the test of time, pleasing my ever-evolving palate through every stage of my life: bean tacos, cinnamon toast and carrot sticks with ranch dressing, to name a few. But there are some that taste better in my memories, aided by the rosy filter of nostalgia, than they do in real life.
A couple of years ago, I bought a box of Hamburger Helper on a whim and made it for dinner with a package of plant-based ground beef. I took one bite, then another, waiting for the flavor I remembered to kick in – but it never did. It wasn’t bad, but it was different.
Maybe it was a change to the formula, or the fact that I substituted the ground beef with a vegan version. But I think it’s more likely that the novelty of having it as a childhood treat on rare occasions had worn off, and my taste buds had moved on. I’d tucked this experience away in a corner of mind until I tested this one-pot pasta from food writer Ben Weiner.
It features farfalle cooked in a savory sausage and fennel ragu, and it benefits from a few unexpected but welcome additions. When I was testing the recipe, once faithfully following the directions and another time playing with a vegetarian twist, I knew it was going to be a hit. The flavors are grown-up, but they inspire that same childlike giddiness I experienced on the nights my parents made Hamburger Helper when I was young.
In fewer words, this pasta is just plain fun. To be clear, this dish isn’t intended to be a copycat of any particular Hamburger Helper product, but I think that’s part of its beauty. Though many of the elements are recognizable, the pasta has its own playful but distinct personality.
It trades ground beef for Italian sausage, macaroni for farfalle (or your favorite short pasta shape), milk for heavy cream, and a premade sauce mix for an explosion of flavors that includes fennel, garlic, tomato paste, pickled hot cherry peppers and pecorino Romano. The dish also doesn’t require much more time or effort than a boxed dinner would. It’s all made in one pot, starting with the Italian sausage.
The meat is browned and broken up into bite-size pieces, creating the first layer of flavor. Next come the fennel and garlic. If you’re not a fan of raw fennel, keep in mind that cooking the vegetable mellows its anise flavors and brings out a sweeter, more subtle side.
After the fennel softens and the flavors meld, tomato paste is introduced to the mix. You also have the option to add chicken or vegetable bouillon, which will boost the salty, savory qualities of the dish. Water is then stirred in, cup by cup, until a rich, red-tinted broth is formed.
Then it’s time to simmer the farfalle. Once the pasta is cooked through, the final few touches are added. Minced pickled hot cherry peppers and heavy cream are mixed in, acting as each other’s yin and yang.
The peppers provide a dose of acidity, gentle heat and a whisper of sweetness, all of which are tempered by the velvety richness of the cream. When the meal is dished up, grated pecorino Romano adds its signature umami funk to each bowl, and everything is finished off with a drizzle of olive oil. Similarities to certain boxed dinners notwithstanding, this is a simple recipe that will infuse your weeknight repertoire with a sense of fun and whimsy that we can all lose sight of in our cooking from time to time.
Some things are best left in the past, but this is one dish I’m excited to carry forward with me. This recipe is a true one-pot pasta. Peggy Cormary/photos; Lisa Cherkasky/food styling, for The Washington Post Pasta with Sausage and Fennel Ragu In this one-pot riff on ragu, quick-cooking sausage forms the base, supplemented by fennel, garlic, tomato paste and an optional umami-boosting bouillon cube.
Pasta added straight to the sauce absorbs all that flavor. A finish of pickled hot cherry peppers, with their liquid, and heavy cream lends richness, a kiss of heat and a cheeky amount of acidity for good measure. The funk of pecorino Romano complements this dish as a garnish.
In the end, it feels like the fun cousin of Hamburger Helper. 4-6 servings Total time: 45 minutes Storage note: Refrigerate for up to 3 days. Reheat in a skillet over low heat with a splash of water.
Make ahead: The ragu base can be prepared (up until the point the water is added) and refrigerated for up to 1 day. Reheat over low heat before proceeding with the recipe as written. INGREDIENTS 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for serving 1 pound bulk hot or sweet Italian sausage 1 medium fennel bulb (8 ounces), trimmed, halved, cored and cut into medium dice 4 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped 1 teaspoon fine salt, plus more to taste 1 chicken or vegetable bouillon cube (optional) 3 tablespoons tomato paste 4 cups water 1 pound short dried pasta, such as farfalle, penne, ziti or shells 1/4 cup minced pickled hot cherry peppers, with 2 tablespoons of their liquid 1/2 cup heavy cream Grated pecorino Romano cheese, for serving DIRECTIONS In a medium Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high heat, heat the oil until shimmering.
Add the sausage and cook without moving until deep brown, 5 to 7 minutes, then break up the sausage into bite-size pieces. (A few larger chunks are fine.) Reduce the heat to medium-low, add the fennel, garlic and salt, and cook until golden, 7 to 10 minutes more.
Add the bouillon cube, if using, and tomato paste and cook, stirring occasionally, until the paste darkens slightly, about 2 minutes. Stir in the water, 1 cup at a time, scraping up any bits on the bottom of the pot with each addition. Bring to a simmer, add in the pasta and cook, stirring occasionally, according to the box instructions for al dente, about 10 minutes.
As the pasta cooks, taste the sauce and season with salt, as desired. Turn off the heat and cover the pot (still on the burner) for 5 minutes to help the pasta absorb the flavorful liquid. Stir in the cherry peppers, with their liquid, and heavy cream, mixing until well combined.
Serve family-style, or divide among individual plates, topping with a generous dusting of freshly grated pecorino Romano and a drizzle of olive oil. Nutritional information per serving (1 2/3 cups), based on 6 | 611 Calories: 65g Carbohydrates, 75mg Cholesterol, 29g Fat, 4g Fiber, 22g Protein, 12g Saturated Fat, 890mg Sodium, 6g Sugar We believe it’s important to offer commenting on certain stories as a benefit to our readers. At its best, our comments sections can be a productive platform for readers to engage with our journalism, offer thoughts on coverage and issues, and drive conversation in a respectful, solutions-based way.
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