Denwa Backwater Escape: Wild and high

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Tucked away from the well-worn tourist paths of Madhya Pradesh’s Kanha and Bandhavgarh lies Satpura’s hidden gem—the Denwa Backwater Escape. While the three-hour journey from Bhopal airport might test your patience, what awaits is an untamed paradise. Here, far from the madding crowds of India’s famous tiger circuits, you’ll find yourself in a rare sweet spot: a wilderness that hasn’t sacrificed its soul to tourism.

This is Satpura’s allure—a tiger reserve that whispers rather than roars. A glass-framed 3D map at the entrance hut offers a detailed guide to navigating the sprawling 10-acre expanse where softly illuminated lanterns lead to Denwa’s intimate collection of accommodations: eight elegantly appointed cottages and a split-level treehouse. Resort Manager Prashant Seegu shares, “Though discreetly nestled behind verdant foliage, the resort’s thoughtful architecture tells its own compelling sustainability story.



In an inspired twist of eco-conscious design, the architecture is designed from reclaimed Saj wood—once railway sleepers, now given new life in this wilderness sanctuary.” The lodge maintains a strict no-room-service policy, a small sacrifice that keeps the local wildlife where it belongs: in the surrounding forest, not hunting for crumbs in your room. Perched like a luxury eagle’s nest above the serpentine Denwa River, the treehouse commands jaw-dropping views.

While the interior cocoons you in contemporary comfort, it’s the expansive porch that steals the show. Here, morning coffee comes with a side of theatrical performances: langurs swinging through nearby branches, spotted deer grazing in dappled sunlight, wild boar trudging through the underbrush, and a constant ballet of exotic birds painting the sky. Highlighting the contribution to Satpura’s ecosystem, Manav Khanduja, owner of Pugdundee Safaris, says, “Local support is vital for conservation.

Over 70 per cent of our team comes from nearby villages.” At Denwa, Satpura’s wild vibes call with epic outdoor adventures. Venture into the Madhai zone, where the jungle holds its breath with possibilities: tigers prowling their territories, leopards ghosting through the shadows, and sloth bears ambling across forest paths.

But it’s the evening boat safari on the Tawa reservoir that reveals Satpura’s secret life. The water world comes alive with an avian spectacle: darters pierce the golden waters and cormorants stretch their wings like gothic gargoyles. Keep your camera ready as white-throated kingfishers streak past in electric blue, while somewhere in the reed beds, freshwater marsh crocodiles bask in the last rays of daylight.

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