7 hours Ago By Ambo Delilan
NEGROS OCCIDENTAL, Philippines – For over four decades, the ever-present scent of grilled chicken at Manokan Country has been a part of life in Bacolod, as essential to the city’s identity as MassKara Festival. But on Friday, February 28, the 42-year-old landmark will meet its final wrecking ball, making way for a P4-billion redevelopment project of SM Prime Holdings Incorporated. What remains of the rustic food hub, established by the late Bacolod mayor Jose Montalvo Jr.
on Father Mauricio Ferrero Street, will be enclosed by March 1, as the Sy-led property giant begins constructing a modern, multi-level commercial complex on the 16,875-square-meter lot. Promises have been made: the new Manokan Country, rebranded and revitalized, will still serve the city’s famous chicken inasal , but under the gleaming roof of a high-rise structure rather than the open-air stalls that for decades contributed much to Bacolod’s culinary culture. The demolition follows nearly two years of controversy and public outcry over a public-private partnership deal between the city government and SM Prime, signed in October 2023.
Bacolod Mayor Alfredo Abelardo Benitez said it was not the end of Manokan Country, while Hans Sy, chairman of SM Prime and recently named Bacolod’s “honorary mayor,” vowed that the new development would uphold the area’s legacy as a tourism beacon and economic driver. Still, for many Bacolodnons, the farewell is tinged with nostalgia. On its Facebook page, Nena’s Rose, one of the 24 affected tenants, posted: “After 42 incredible years, Manokan Country, a beloved landmark in Bacolod City, has closed its doors.
This iconic destination was more than just a place to enjoy the city’s famous chicken inasal – it was a cultural hub and a cherished part of our heritage.” It added, “Manokan Country holds a special place in our hearts. It’s where we grew up, created lasting memories, celebrated milestones, and shared the joy of Bacolod’s food culture with loved ones.
Losing a place so tied to our history is truly bittersweet.” Bacolod Councilor Celia Flor, who chairs the city’s committee on markets and slaughterhouses, acknowledged the emotional weight of the moment. She told Rappler, “Manokan Country has countless stories to tell, but we will never abandon its tenants.
We will help them until they can return to the new Manokan Country.” SM Prime has already paid the local government P131.89 million as an initial down payment for a 40-year lease.
It will pay P21.26 million per month, with a 5% increase every three years. While local officials assured that the agreement was intended to bring economic growth, the deal continued to spark heated debates over local heritage, tourism, and business interests.
Critics included the Roman Catholic Diocese of Bacolod, and at the forefront is Caritas Philippines-Social Action Center Foundation’s Father Julius Espinosa, who said he was tasked by Bishop Patricio Buzon to advocate for the tenants. Lawyer Joemax Ortiz briefly took up the legal fight for the 24 stall owners, arguing that the city government had failed to repeal a 1983 ordinance, which formally established and recognized the Manokan Country. The legal resistance crumbled, however, in August 2024 when Ortiz withdrew from the case, stating that each of his clients had accepted city hall’s P20,000-relocation aid and the promise of priority spots in the future food hub.
The controversy further took a twist when Bacolod city attorney, Romeo Carlos Ting, resigned on December 17, 2024. Speculation ran wild about whether his departure was tied to legal complications surrounding the SM Prime project. The tenants closed shop on July 16, 2024, only for city hall to flipflop a day later due to legal snags.
The final decision , however, was inevitable. Now, what was once a bustling destination – where families, tourists, and even Philippine presidents savored the smoky, flavorful inasal – will soon be replaced with concrete, steel, and glass. As the smell of inasal in the area drifts into Bacolod’s memory, the fate of Manokan Country – whether it preserves the soul of its predecessor or fades into just another stall in a corporate-run food court – remains uncertain.
– Rappler.com.
