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Dona Sherburne and her late husband Keith Sherburne, soon after they moved to Germany as newlyweds. Courtesy of Dona Sherburne I was a 22-year-old bride getting ready to go to Germany to start my new life in two weeks. But I couldn’t cook! I sat my Mom down for a crash course.
“How do you make that fish stew I love?” If you’d like to contribute to Home Plates, send a recipe and a story telling us how you came to cook it, who you cook it for and why it’s found a place in your life to [email protected] . Also, please tell us a little bit about your life as a home cook, include a photo of the dish, and yourself, possibly together, and let us know the source of the recipe.
It went like this: Mom told me to start with a large pot, like the big enamel one she always used. My face said ????, so she pointed it out to me. Coat the bottom of the pan with olive oil, then add some sliced onions when the oil gets hot.
“How many onions?” I asked. Mom said two or three medium – “just judge.” When they’re soft, add 2 or 3 garlic cloves, depending on their size.
I didn’t ask. Be sure not to let the garlic burn or I’d have to start over, she warned me. Now, add a large can of tomatoes.
Hurrah! I knew what that was! Also, a few good scoops of tomato paste and some good red wine. I asked how much red wine and my Mom, ever explicit, suggested about half of her favorite juice glass. Got it! I was told to let everything cook together, over low heat, without a lid (helpful detail) until it looked good and smelled right.
Imagine me with a bubble over my head — ???? Green beans for the fish stew? I got this! Dona Sherburne, then an inexperienced cook, thought to herself. Shawn Patrick Ouellette/Staff Photographer Add 2 bay leaves, yes! a real number!, salt, pepper and fish stock (you guessed it, mom said to “judge” the amount). Add a nice batch (???) of cleaned string beans.
Sigh of relief. I knew about that because at home I always helped to clean the beans. When the beans are “al dente,” Mom continued — I’m feeling good because I knew what that meant — add the fish.
OK, I had a few questions here: What kind of fish? How much fish? Nothing oily, she answered. Maybe some cod and enough to feed the number you’re serving – judge. There’s that word again.
Cover the fish with sauce, and when it’s cooked (I didn’t ask), add some capers. As much as you like (she anticipated me). Then turn off the heat and let the stew rest a few minute to heat the capers.
She did say how important it is to taste the food before serving: always. Best ever advice from a great cook. Thanks Mom! As it turned out, it was in Germany that I discovered my love for cooking.
For my Maine-born husband, I learned to make New England dishes. I am of Italian descent so I learned Italian and Mediterranean dishes, too. And, of course, German food, since I was living there! My German “Mom” taught the same way my own Mom did, more by feel than by measurement, so I quickly learned how to “judge.
” Flash forward: I have now taught cooking for over 40 years in New Jersey and Maine. A few years back, I celebrated 25 years cooking together with some of my original Maine students, who’ve taken classes over and over with me. It created a beautiful community.
The fish stew starts, as do many delicious meals, with sautéed onions. Karin Hildebrand Lau/Shutterstock MY MOM’S FISH STEW Eventually, I wrote down more explicit directions and measurements for making my mom’s fish stew. Serves 6 – 8 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 medium onions, sliced 3 large garlic cloves, peeled and halved 1 large (28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes 3 tablespoons tomato paste 1⁄2 cup dry red or white wine 2 large bay leaves Salt and pepper, to taste 2 cups fish stock 1 pound string beans, in 1-inch pieces 2 1⁄2 pounds cod or haddock, cut into large cubes 2 tablespoons capers, drained Heat the oil in a large pot.
When it is medium hot, add the onions. Cook over medium heat until soft, about 4 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook until fragrant, less than a minute – do not let burn.
Add the crushed tomatoes, tomato paste and wine. Simmer the mixture, uncovered, for 5 minutes. Add the bay leaves and salt and pepper.
Simmer an additional 10 minute. Add the fish stock and string beans. Bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer until the string beans are just crisp tender, 5 to 6 minutes, then add the fish to the pan and gently push down into sauce.
Sprinkle with capers and simmer 5-6 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat and let rest for 5 minutes. Adjust seasoning if necessary, discard the bay leaves and serve.
Courtesy of Dona Sherburne MEET THE COOK: Dona Sherburne Dona Sherburne is a retired insurance agent who has lived in Maine for 30 years. Her four daughters are all excellent cooks, according to their proud mom; two of them even opened a restaurant together. Sherburne and her husband raised their family in New Jersey.
After they retired, he told her he was ready to move back to Maine, where he’d grown up. “We did and it was the best move I ever made,” she says. “I am not a Mainer but I feel like one.
” In addition to teaching cooking, Sherburne also ran an art studio as part of the Osher Lifelong Learning Institute (senior college) at University of Southern Maine; she especially loves sumi-e brush painting. We invite you to add your comments. We encourage a thoughtful exchange of ideas and information on this website.
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