1 day Ago By Elise Taylor
It’s not putting on airs to say that Telluride, Colorado, is one of the best mountain towns in America: founded in 1878 by a rowdy group of Wild West silver miners, Telluride transformed over the century from a precious metal hub to a cultural one—the seventies saw the arrival of both the Telluride ski resort and the world-renowned Telluride Film festival known for premiering movies like Mulholland Drive, Brokeback Mountain, and Lady Bird. And that’s to say nothing of its beauty. Nestled within a box canyon, Telluride is surrounded by snowcapped mountains that appear to stretch to the sky.
(In a way, they almost do—many of the town’s peaks are higher than 14,000 feet. One of them, called Wilson Peak, even inspired the famous Coors Light logo.) Admittedly, Telluride isn’t the easiest place to get to.
Its airport—the highest-elevation commercial airport in the United States—only offers direct flights from Denver and Phoenix. Everyone else (unless you are flying private) must fly into Montrose, a 1.5-hour drive away.
Yet those who are willing to make the trek to the San Juan Mountains—a rugged stretch within the Rockies—will be well rewarded by beauty, adventure, and history. Below, Vogue ’s Telluride, Colorado guide, from where to stay to where to eat—whether you are staying in the historic Victorian town or up the gondola at Mountain Village. Best Hotels At the base of Mountain Village is the Madeline Hotel, the five-star, Michelin-keyed Auberge resort that’s perfect for those wanting to enjoy a full-service ski holiday.
The rooms are decorated in an alpine-modern style (think fireplaces and beds with faux-fur throws paired with crisp linen white sheets) whereas their on-site restaurant, Black Iron Kitchen and Bar, is just the place to get a hot toddy and cheese fondue après-ski. Another Auberge resort, Element 52 sits at the bottom of Telluride gondola and on the cusp of town. Instead of standard guest rooms, guests rent a two-to-five bedroom luxury residence that comes with all the amenities of a luxury resort, from a fitness center to a spa.
As for the homes themselves—they’re ski-in ski-out, boast private hot tubs, and have state-of-the-art kitchens that’ll please everyone from chefs to those who just want to make a hearty, post-slope bolognese for their family. This quaint bed and breakfast—run by the same hoteliers as the famed Dunton Hot Springs located an hour and a half away—is rustic in all the right ways: the interiors are inspired by the classic Tyrolean alpine aesthetic, a nod to how hundreds of immigrants from the Austrian region settled in Telluride in the 1800s. There’s Tyrolean antiques in the entryway and European fabrics in the five guest rooms.
During breakfast, the table is set with Austrian ceramics. It is also in a prime location: both the town’s main street and the ski mountain are two minutes away by (snow-booted) foot. Lumière, at the base of chair four in Mountain Village, also earned a prestigious “Michelin Key” destination—making it another fantastic option for those seeking luxury lodging.
Like Element 52, it is a residence hotel: there are eighteen homes with ski-in, ski-out homes that range from one to five bedrooms. All come with a 24/7 concierge service. Best Restaurants: Fine Dining, Cafés, Bars, and More Located on Telluride Mountain at just under 12,000 feet, Alpino Vino is the second-highest elevation restaurant in North America.
Inspired by the gourmet alpine of the Dolomites, it offers dishes like wagyu paninis and lobster cavatelli—as well as an extensive, extensive, wine list to skiers looking to unwind after a day on the slopes. On a blue bird day, enjoy all of the above (and maybe a charcuterie platter, too) on the deck underneath a heat lamp. On a snowy one, take shelter in the cozy European hut amid the snow.
Alpino Vino is open during the winter season only for both lunch and dinner—although, come nightfall, you’ll need to arrive via snowcat. The Mediterranean meets the mountains with The National, a smart contemporary restaurant by Michelin-bib gourmet chef Chris Thompson. Pheasant agnolotti and wild boar rigatoni sit alongside vegetable tagine and yellowtail crudo, all served in a contemporary dining room with mood lighting and exposed brick.
If you feel like splurging, go for a seafood plateau with snow crab, oysters, and poached prawns. Housed in a stone building that dates back to the 1890s, Stronghouse might be one of the best little brewpubs in America. Enjoy a mug of their craft beers (we’re partial to the honey ginger) and order hearty Colorado fare like hot Bavarian pretzels with mustard and pork green chili.
Don’t leave without indulging in one of their famous bratwursts—from classic to elk jalapeno cheddar—which is served on a hoagie roll. (Although ask your waiter before committing to anything. When this writer visited, they also had a venison bratwurst special.
) Tucked away in a wooden cabin—once the mining town’s ice house—is La Marmotte, an elegant and cozy French restaurant right in downtown Telluride. The menu changes seasonally, but this winter, they’re offering classic, comforting dishes like croque madames and beef bourguignon. The most famous restaurant in all of Telluride.
Ride the gondola up from either Mountain Village or Telluride town to St. Sophia, where a door to Allred’s is located right in the mid-mountain station. Dine on a Colorado Rack of lamb or Bourbon marinated elk strip-loin underneath antler chandeliers and with sprawling snowcapped views of the Rocky Mountain peaks beyond.
Speaking of which: in the winter months, consider making a reservation for lunch so you can enjoy the view—as the sun sets before 6 p.m. in both December and January.
Warm up with spicy dishes at Siam, Telluride’s in-town Thai restaurant that’s cozy, unpretentious, and most of all, good. The curries are the must-order here: the khao soi and panang come with a specialty short rib, whereas green, red and yellow curries can be made with everything from chicken to tofu. Don’t forget to add a hearty order of drunken noodles.
The Grand serves what best can be described as modern mountain food: Espresso elk loin, butternut squash lasagna, and pistachio trout are just some of the elevated takes they have on the classic culinary category. And that’s just for dinner: from 3 to 5 p.m.
is aprés ski happy hour, where martins and hot toddies are $10. For a casual lunch or breakfast, go to The Butcher & The Baker, where fresh bread is made in-house and the meats and cheeses are sourced from local farms. Fuel up on the breakfast burrito before tackling the mountain’s famous Black Iron Bowl, or have a leisurely lunch of white bean and pumpkin chili with a side of buffalo cauliflower wings.
No trip to Telluride is complete without a drink at the Historic Bar at the New Sheridan Hotel—a bar that boasts its original interiors from 1895. Ornate light fixtures hang from a tin ceiling, whereas revealers line up about a rich mahogany bar. There’s hooks to hang your coat and cowboy hats.
..which you might want to do before heading into the back to play a spirited game of pool.
The best pizza in town and then some: Brown Dog in Telluride was featured on an episode of the Food Network's famous Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives. (Guy Fieri ate their “Brooklyn Bridge” pizza with mozzarella, ricotta, and pepperoni.) They offer both Detroit style and traditional crust, as well as famous cheesesteak sub made with ribeye and topped with grilled peppers.
Best Shops Founded in 1974, Between the Covers is Telluride’s beloved independent bookstore. Books by world-famous contemporary authors like Walter Isaacson and Sally Rooney sit alongside classics as well as works by local writers (If you want a Telluride history book, you’ll have several options to choose from). If it is warm enough, flip through it on their outdoor deck with views of the famous box canyon.
For fine—and authentic—western wear, go to Crossbow Leather and Hats which was founded by a Telluride native. As the name implies, they make custom hats and belts. But they also offer so much more: turquoise jewelry, flannels, toggle cloaks, weekenders, and candles are just a few of the other offerings you’ll find on their shelves.
.
